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I think replacing a 400 amp with a 60 amp is way off the RADAR. It is a serious downgrade that makes no sense. If it is a money issue, save up the money and purchase a proper replacement, and then sell the 400 amp unit to recoup some cash. IMHO

Really happy for you BUT the World must be ending because I think Heck just froze over after a deal like that.

Looks like you also need to purchase new springs.

You sound like a drunk college fraternity member. (Still you’re absolutely correct! Painters’ tape ASAP to cover that!)

I hope this helps you. Of all these members, only Action has been seen since 2020. Some of those members have been missing as long as 2015. Risks of using the search engine. These parts are harder and harder to find. The parts he used look custom or were from a different kit than I have. I...

Please remind us. What year truck and what amperage alternator? In older 60 amp trucks, all the current runs through the PCB. In trucks with a 200 amp and above alternator, there is a current bypass. This could be as simple as a bad PCB connection or a PCB going bad on a 60 amp system. That...

Life can take hold anywhere. Some in rocks at high pressure, some in volcanic superheated lakes, and some in things like Diesel fuel. It is not a new phenomenon. Clean your system. Change all the filters. Then use chemicals to kill the micro-organism.

The point is also to protect from dust and ambient humidity

At no time did you mention engine temperature and at no time did you mention using a laser thermometer to check the temperature of the block. Why are you assuming this has to do with heat lock? What box are you referring to when you say “you lost the box”? Are you using a language translation...

Just borrow a Diesel tach and measure true ROM at idle. Then again at 2000 ROM. Then again at 3000 RPM. Compare to RPM on the alternator driven unit. Then divide the alternator driven ROM result by the appropriate number to get the true RPM.

Yeah, you’re correct Steve. My point is the conversation has gone full circle. He needs to identify the “true” RPM and then confirm if there is a problem or if it is his perception that he has a loud engine.

Guys, the foundation here is the differential gearing. Ones the OP determines the gearing, he will have an answer, re.: is the tranny slipping or not properly shifting and locking up. Alternator pulley size is a non-issue. Action has clearly pointed out the RPM sensor on the crank.

Sometimes the most educational thing is to rip apart the engine and look at what’s inside. Maybe you can salvage, but most likely cheaper to buy a new one. Either way, you can save parts and see what’s inside and what failed. It’s free and you lose nothing. I’ve saved worse engines BUT they...

You won’t be able to defog the windshield. I’m not sure removing the heater is a good idea.

Box might be defective or toast. I seem to recall others have complained about this but I don’t recall what type of box they had. I would check the stock ignition switch first. Cheaper fix.

I have made temporary gaskets that worked well on my old Saab 900 turbos with soft Aluminum sheet. I sanded the muffler tubing smooth, and then placed the Aluminum sheet and tightened down the bolts. Worked acceptably at the time. Muffler tape with a hole in the center also works as a temporary...

That looks like the truck might’ve been owned by MacGyver. I’m willing to bet money that stuff is not military. I agree with the idea of getting an inverter. They make inverters that will put out 110 or 220 V. Depending on your equipment, you need to decide if you want true sign wave or not...

Sand inside an engine requires immediate rebuild, period, full stop. Even if the engine looked perfect otherwise, sand makes this engine an immediate rebuild.

I remember when life was simple, gasoline had lead, cigarettes were healthy, only pinko communists smoked marijuana, and antifreeze was just green antifreeze. After reading all of this I, like several of the other posters here, am more confused now than ever and I have no idea what to choose...

You may already know this… Fast and easy differential check. Chain or chock vehicle securely. Jack up front end. Put transfer case and tranny into neutral and use secure jackstands to maintain safety. Mark a wheel and mark the drive shaft in crayon or chalk with a single line. Spin a wheel and...