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Now I would like to talk A LOT about Cast Iron Rockers for the 6.2., failure points, how to correct failure points and my experience with them over the many years of running them on every 6.2 I had opened up. Here is some info I had stored away that is useful. “With the high compression ratio...

I am so glad I checked the torque on the Arp studs this morning. It seems the gasket settled within just 8-10 hours that I was able to feel about 5 pounds of torque lost from the settlement of the gasket. Note: All final torquing needs to be done before the Optimum Black cure time expires.

On with the head gasket. And head. I put the Arp nuts and washers in a bag with 10w-40, mixed them up and put them on the studs. Using just the socket, I got the nuts hand tight and started my torque at 25, then 35,45,55,65,75,85,95,105 and the final 115. In sequence according to Arp. Yes I...

Today I refurbished the Arp studs. I Cleaned the rust out of the cylinders and got all the Wd-40 off the deck. Using optimum black I coated the end of the studs and put them in hand tight. Then I took them back out, added more optimum black and put them back in hand tight. Cleaned up the...

What year is your 6.2 with the 6.5 turbo parts?

Today is my Sons birthday! 13 years old! I will not do much today to the motor so I can spend some time with him. What I did do is put the lifters in. I used blue thread lock and tightened the bolts hand tight. Turning the crank in front of the motor to make sure they go up and down without...

Other things I did to this motor last summer: Got the radiator refurbished with a new 4 core Installed the ORD motor mounts New G60s glow plugs Refurbished oil pan Refurbished Timing plate cover with crank seal All new gaskets New Lift Pump New Valve Covers Rear Main Seal Added the Arp...

Something worth mentioning. Last summer 2019 this motor was purchased from Boyce Equipmemt with said 23,000 k miles. When I got the motor last summer I added a gear drive to keep the timing true. A girdle to prevent cracks. A fluidamper which I believe is a absolute must have to prevent...

The lifters finally arrived! I put all 16 lifters in a plastic container and poured 15w-40 oil into the container. I will let them sit for 24 hours to totally soak in the oil. 24 hours might be too excessive but it’s almost bed time and I have to work tomorrow. 😂

I took off the ORD motor mounts from both sides of the block to give me access to the motors drain plugs on the block. After I am done doing both heads, I plan on draining the remaining nasty coolant from those plugs and flushing out the system.

Oh yea that looks very nice! What method did you use with the ARPs? Was it successful? Bored and twitching from all the coffee, while waiting for the darn lifters to show up (Late shipping) I decided to pull out the ORD motor crossover brace that has been sitting in my upgrade pile for 7 years...

Going above and beyond most, I probed the inside of the block with a magnet and picked up quite a bit of metal material. Mostly rust chunks.

Cool! Got any pictures?

Another rumor in regards to head gaskets I would like to put to rest once and for all. The claim I have read dozens of times to use a .10 thickness head gasket to lower compression for more boost is IMO not a good idea and is false. I base my judgement on the many build repairs I have read and...

There are a lot of rumors about 6.2 and 6.5 head gaskets. I had to see for myself which one I thought would be the best option for a turbo application. I went into O’Reilly auto parts and compared both head gaskets. The top gasket is for a 84 6.2. The bottom is for a 93 6.5. The cylinder...

All done for tonight. The lifters should be in tomorrow!

To clean the head bolt holes I used a 12x1.75 tap that fits perfect! After each hole I cleaned the tap and hole with brake clean. Thank the Lord I have a full respirator that blocks all fumes, gas and vapors. I did 5 passes with the tap and cleaner with each hole. Each time I inspected the tap...

For the passenger head I used the same method to clean it as I did the block. Razor blade all gasket material off while using shop vac to get material. Cleaned with paper towel and brake cleaner. Used the angle grinder Scott’s medium grit pad as much as I could without jeopardizing losing Metal...

Once all the gasket material was removed with the razor blade, I used paper towels and brake cleaner to remove oil and coolant from the block. Then using my shop vac and angle grinder, with a Scott’s pad on it, I super cleaned the block where the head gets bolted. I sucked up any material...

The rubber mallet method did not work this time to take the head off. I believe the copper spray acted like a glue. I could not even pry them off. I had to use a chisel and gently hammer it between the block and head to break the seal. She is off with no damage from the chisel. I put the head...