Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
I was stuck in traffic once just idling in 1st gear rumbling along, and the same rattling noise that happens to me in neutral clutch pedal released was present. But it definitely is only present at a sort of floating point (where the driving force from the engine is almost equal to the drive...
I just bought some universal wiper blades listed by amazon as compatible with 1986 Chevy K30. That was a mistake. Shorter, worse quality, and the passenger side didn't fit at all.
Can anyone recommend some good aftermarket wiper blades that fit?
I still think I might be missing an adapter part? The CDR tube is in the way and can't be pushed out of the way.
Did the Civi trucks have different routing for the CDR?
After a fair amount of highway driving, it is pretty evident that these engines without an intake resonator have a pretty loud drone. I may have been too quick to buy a civilian intake resonator that appeared to attached to our intake housings, but it doesn't look like it?
Im pretty sure the...
There wouldn't be anything to repair if I didn't break things lol.
I managed to get it out by drilling and hammering a allen into it. Im looking for a bolt to replace the old screw.
Turns out the old one was 100% plastic.
I can't seem to find a bleed screw anywhere, yet it appears every stanadyne FM filter head and all the knock off ones ALL use the same bleed screw. Did these filters go out of production a while ago? I can't even find very many filter housings... even on ebay.
Well, I over-torqued the small plastic bleed screw on my FM100 filter housing. It broke the head off the screw and left the threads and what appears to be an internal pot metal valve inside the housing.
Anyone ever encounter this? Easy way to get whats left of the screw out? Where to find...
I've been doing research on how fuel lines are plumbed at the tank and I was wondering what exactly is required for the return line.
Does it need to terminate at the bottom of tank submerged in fuel? Or can it just terminate at the top of the tank in air?
I am installing a new main tank in the...
I would assume the nut would be come rounded to the point where the fork can move without the nut turning. I just wouldn't be able to take the nut off lol.
So far its pretty solid, no slop. The nut is against the fork pretty good, I don't think its going anywhere.
Plus I think its allowing me to back the fork further up the half threaded rod AA provided.
Now that I've driven it around with the nv4500 and 4.56 I'd say 4.10s would be perfect.
I can't stay in 5th for any hill right now anyways, so dropping to 4.10s isn't going to make a difference, except in flat cruising.
I don't think its the bearing. The countershaft will continue to spin a little bit after the clutch pedal is depressed. But the noise stops immediately. So the noise is not connected to the rotation of the countershaft/input shaft, but rather the direct connection to the engine in neutral.
The...
Lift pump is new. I'll probably end up pulling it to see if the push rod is broken. Bought the truck with a broken push rod and replaced it and the lift pump.
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!