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No smoke at all, revvs super easy. I've actually been trying to add resistance to the throttle because it's basically an on/off switch.

True, I also could not find any anywhere. My local junkyards just don't have manual chevy trucks.

They work fine, it's just personal preference. I wanted an external slave (for ease of servicing) on drivers side (no need to worry about front driveshaft).

Actually my south bend clutch was listed as being for both 6.2 and 6.5. "Truck Applications: Chevy/GMC 6.2L 1985-93, Chevy/GMC 6.5L 1994-01"

I originally tried to find the correct cross member (I believe a 700r4 W-style one), but couldn't find any. Let me know if you end up finding one.

Normally I would just go OEM and call it a day, but seeing how annoying the problem is when these fuel lines leak, I'm shooting for as much "over-engineer" as possible.

Thought the air bubbles were gone as the truck has been running fine and starting easy for the last week, but when I revved the motor it immediately starting having trouble maintaining rpm and stalled twice while driving. RPMs definitely seem to exagerate the ingress of air from wherever the...

I attached the trans mount spacer to the nv4500 first then bolted the cross member to the frame, then I drilled holes for the bottom two bolts. The holes in the trans spacer are not in the perfect middle of the spacer though, so I suppose it is a little of.

Ha, had the same problem. I ended up putting a hydraulic jack and a piece of 2x4 inside the frame rails and physically pushing the rails further apart.

Driving around you can definitely feel its impact. The thing really absorbs a ton of speed changes in the driveline/engine.

Yeah flywheel thickness seems to be the determining factor. I wonder why the 6.5 needs a thinner flywheel? I assumed one could use the 6.2 flywheel on the 6.5? Fighting the install of the pilot into the crank or the input shaft into the pilot?

6.5 on the right? In terms of interchangeability I was referring to diameter, bolt pattern, and tooth count.

Just a thought I didn't bring up before, do you have a 6.5 in your truck or just using a 6.5 flywheel? I thought both flywheels are interchangeable?

Fork has just a sliver of space left bottoming out the master cylinder. Clutch is fully disengaged just before the pedal hits the floor. I'm going to attempt to adjust the rod to try and get the TO bearing to have 0 preload in a couple weeks (trucks going in for a gasket overhaul soon).

Not sure if I posted these pictures already, but here is the TO bearing at its maximums. With the fork against the rim of the bellhousing opening (towards the rear) the TO is almost past the input shaft sleeve. Theoretically, the clutch should be disengaged at that point if not before. If not...

1998 trans, no synchros on reverse. It does have the 1-2 speed lockout.

I still have to have someone actuate the pedal while I watch my fork travel, but when I did have the slave cyl adjusted so it didn't have any preload on the pressure plate, the full travel of the pedal (to the floor) would not disengage the clutch as I could not put it in gear with the engine...

It actually looks like I have about the same distance as you. I'm going to snag someone to operate the pedal while I record the fork moving

Did you get the same flywheel that I got? LUK LFW201.

I'll have to take some pics of where my clutch fork is sitting. Mine fully engages and disengages the clutch, no interference from the bellhousing. I don't believe you should have to grind the bellhousing. What clutch kit did you buy? There are two kits for the two different years of the nv4500...