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Yes I do understand that. I am more looking at the voltage regulator, since the drawing in that document seems to indicate that the exciter wire is in fact NOT terminal 1 (ign light) and actually all on terminal 2. Which is counter to what I keep reading everywhere.

Does anyone know if this diagram is accurate to the cucv alternators? http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6522/Delco_Alternator.pdf

I used redline mt85. Says on the bottle nv4500 and I read plenty of dodge guys having good luck with it. I rebuilt the transmission myself following a guide. Bearings are brand new as is the input shaft. End play is correct.

Ill add that the rattling does not occur when coasting in neutral. As soon as I slow below a couple of mph, the rattling starts. Seems to be louder when on a slope for some reason. I think the countershaft is the source.

Smoke test? do tell

As annoying as this whole thing is, I guess I should just bite the bullet and start replacing things. I definitely have the correct lift pump.

I would think if there was air leaking into the system, fuel is leaking out of the system. I dont see any wet spots or fuel sitting anywhere. That method does look good, but I think it would actually be easier to replace every fuel tube in the entire truck and be done with it....

Does anyone know where I can get the diode circled in the picture? Does the charging light offer resistance? I hear these GM alternators need about 10 ohm resistance on terminal 1 of the alt wiring, or does it charge at the correct voltage with just 12v feeding it? * Now that I think about...

Well didn't get to test my theory, cause now it wont start again! Injector lines are dry! I guess my issue is the IP? I dont understand why the fuel is draining back to the tank. Its certainly not going anywhere else. No leaks at all. Not that this might matter, but the truck is parked up...

If it's normal then I can live with it. Potentially bearing cage rattling when the counter shaft is unloaded spinning at idle?

It seems like a good idea for a np205. But for a 208, the aluminum housing was built to handle that weight

Where did you order the cast iron tailhousing? The only thing I found on it was cheap chinese ones that crack after a while.

No. The th400 to t-case adapter plate cannot be used. There are mounting holes on the nv4500 tail housing that you will have to fabricate a spacer to bolt it to the cross member.

I'm hoping that's the root of the problem. Definitely makes sense to me, low voltage=intermittent ip shut off

I guess I spoke too soon. Took it for a drive today and after about 20 minutes it was struggling to stay alive at all. I got back home and it was an awful idle, dropping almost 300 rpm then revving back to 800rpm. I took a volt meter to the batteries, and it was 11.49v! Apparently I've been...

Yep, synthetic gl4 75w85. New input shaft bearing too. Fluid is brand new, Ill change it again to see if the sound changes at all. I was thinking that maybe the clutch fork was rattling against the throw out bearing since there is nothing retaining the TO bearing to the fork itself.

Pretty straight forward. A bit tight getting the whole line around the frame. Thanks.

New throw out bearing, new pilot bushing, pivot ball is greased, slave cylinder push rod secured against pivot arm.... I guess this noise is just normal? Maybe louder than normal considering I have no insulation in the truck right now. Note: AA pivot arm and slave cylinder adapter (for use...

I cracked the injector lines open and they were pretty dry. Bled them (6/8 ) and the engine fired right up. Running smooth without hiccups after warming up. Surprisingly the engine would not fire up with only 4/8 injectors bled. Prior to my original post, I had just replaced both the send and...

Called the police, they said the best chance I'd have is to move it down the street. Unfortunately I live in an HOA that will also tow the vehicle if it enters the neighborhood. Something about green trucks are not allowed.... Very annoying that the truck went from running decent, to...