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All the dodges have run lift electric lift pumps since late 1998. First was a block mounted electric pump, which was prone to dropping fuel pressure and damaging the piston in the injector pump. Dodge then came out with a retrofit to an in tank pump to fix the problem. All the newer dodges are...

I said more robust.... and our pumps really aren't weak. They put up with a lot of abuse and neglect before they actually need replacement.

That system was developed to deal with problems inherent in the design of the bosch VP44 injector pump. Our pumps are completely different and don't suffer at all from the problems that system was meant to address. Our pumps are much more robust, just keep particulate matter out of them. In...

Use the bomb hoist...

should be done with Hanks bobber by next weekend. I'll be ready after that.

That generator is massive! I'm impressed.

You really want an LDS-465-1 or -1A. This is the higher horsepower engine. The manufacturer is not so important, however I have gathered from my research that the engines built by Continental seem to hold up better. The later model engines, mostly built by either White or Hercules have a tool...

That's wierd... I never had a problem getting mine on with the alternator loosened and pushed over toward the engine. Maybe get a couple 48" belts...

Posting a few pictures would help us to quickly determine the exact make and model. Does it have any doors on the cab? It could possibly be a cckw. No telling without pics though.

Don't plan on 10 for an unknown truck. Safer to plan on 7-8.

Even new old stock rings from 1969 would work fine. The rings don't go bad sitting on a shelf, they lose their spring by being compressed in a cylinder for a long time.

You may want to check the turbo flange to exhaust manifold gasket to see if that was causing the smoke in the cab.

Same thing I used in the floor of my deuce, and what I'm using on Hank's bobber. Has held up great in my truck as well and really hasn't faded either.

Could be the same thing with the pto itself, simply not engaging completely because it got out of adjustment.

I thought the big turbo would only make about 8 psi max in real world testing?

I agree. I bet the shear pin is actually broken. Remove the shear pin and inspect the work shaft to driveshaft interface. This will require removal of the driveshaft.

Cut it off, then drill and tap it.

Well you can do the standard cursory check of the turbo by just removing the intake tube and looking at the turbine wheel and checking for bearing play. If it lost fins he should be able to tell just from that.

Have you looked at your turbo recently? I wonder if some fins might have made their way into a cylinder?

Well all that leaves is a valve issue or a piston with a hole in it. You have adjusted the valves right? Ok, I see that you did. Looks like you'll be pulling the heads to see if it is a piston or a bad valve. That sucks man.