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Was just busy over the weekend and didn't go on line at all ;) Got the PM and will take care of him.

Funny, the first thing I mentioned to my son was a 1 wire GM alternator... After talking to a few folks it seems I may have to stay with the 24V system and find room for a couple small batteries. I hear that the best route is to swap the flywheel bellhousing and starter to the civilian...

Thank you, he is definitely an exception from the norm for his age. He has built a go kart, resurrected 3 or more old riding mowers, he operates my backhoe.... often loading and unloading generators for me. Now he wants his JD 425 to be diesel powered for no practical reason other than the cool...

Hello Guys, I was wondering if anyone out there has repurposed an LPW2 from an 802A for a 12V application and if so, what did you use for a starter? My 11 year old son took one of my spare motors and swapped it into his JD 425 tractor, because it was there..... I guess.... Due to a lack of room...

Correct, send over a private message and I will respond. If you have issues just let us know here.

You might be able to get some parts from Ambac ( parts that are common to the M50 ) if they will still sell to you, and I have spare delivery valve springs etc. if you need one, but if you have a pitted or damaged plunger you will need to source another pump. I have also made some delivery valve...

Once you get the starter issue corrected, we can get back to it. If the IP is pumping fuel but not enough pressure, the spring may be causing an issue, not keeping the delivery valve closed long enough. Other than that the only other pressure issue I have ever seen with those pumps is pitting on...

Unfortunately the PSU pump shown on that web site ( for $780 ) appears to be an exchange not really a rebuild. I think you send them the PSU and you'll get an Ambac M50 for $780! It's cheaper to just buy yourself an M50 outright, when they are available. The #1 failure point of the PSU is a...

Before you do anything else to the pump, make sure your batteries are in good shape, it sounds like they may be wearing down as you are cranking. Next, are you using the glow plugs? If so how long? You might need them for 30 seconds min. If that doesn't help we may need to verify the glow plugs...

Also, while you're in there, double check that there aren't any remaining little pieces of the spacer stuck to the #4 holder or down in the body where the tapered edge of the holder seals. Any little chunks stuck in there will prevent the pump from building pressure. It would look like a very...

Ok, the reason you're having difficulty is that your delivery valve spacer is deteriorated an / or missing ( #5 in the image ) It's a paper thin plastic ring that goes around the delivery valve holder to keep it in place while you reassemble it. They tend to fall apart over time. You could buy a...

Sounds like your IP is most likely OK. I would reattach the lines at the pump and just crack them open a 1/2 turn at the injectors and verify that you get a very small spurt of high pressure fuel up at the injectors. NOTE: is will be just a small amount of fuel every other revolution of the...

You know me all too well Guy! He is correct: 1) Do you have fuel flow to the inlet of the IP? ( there is a check valve near the oil pressure gage that occasionally gets stuck ) 2) If you have confirmed fuel flow to the IP is good, crack open one or both injector lines and see if you are getting...

In addition to the above, check the starter itself. I have seen several " old style " starters where the linkage from the solenoid on the starter to the drive gear has gotten frozen. This causes the solenoid to be stuck in the engaged position. You can quickly verify this by seeing if the...

Ah ha! Scoobyshep, you may have just solved it! Looking at the A/V switch it appears that Amps only register when set to L1-L0, L2-L0 or L3-L0 not when set to L1-L3 or any other line to line setting. Shane, turn the A/V switch 1 click to the right to the L1-L0 setting and retest. I think the...

If you want to test the circuit you should be able to remove the wires from the back of the gage and set your meter for AC amps. ( or milli. amps ) ( Plug the red lead into the appropriate spot on the meter ) with the machine at full load you should have 1 amp flowing between the gage wires. At...

The set Shane is talking about came from me. The single phase conversion was done before load testing, so I don't know if the Amp gage worked prior. This is the 3rd 005A that I have had and none of them had Amp gages ( #6 in the TM ) that had a reading ( all tested after the conversion ) but...

You can do either. Try gluing it back on. You may want to use contact cement, apply to both surfaces, let dry then stick together. That stuff is a silicone open cell foam, maybe 10mm square or so? Anything remotely similar will work just fine.

Take out the injector and clean the copper washer between the head and injector as well as the head and end of the injector body. You can clean everything, hit the copper washer with a propane torch to anneal it and reinstall. You can tighten down the clamp then tap down on it with a hammer and...

If worst comes to worst and you end up doing a motor swap, I have a brand new ( still crated ) complete engine for your 005A. My brother did exactly as stated above, bought it from the auction ( was listed as 400hz. ) because he was going to replace the motor on his 005. Turned out his just...