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I like 395's on aluminum MRAP rims with adapter plates.

4-5 years ago I was highly fit, competitive level powerlifter, benching 405. Was mildly offroading an M35A2 on super singles in the AZ desert. I found the low speed rough terrain really needed power steering. Now I'm old and fat and feeble, with bad rotator cuffs. What was a PITA then would be...

Easily. All you have to change is everything but the engine... :)

I strongly recommend just waiting until the right truck comes along. You want something that's roadworthy from the word go. Something you can more-or-less trust to make the drive. Not a massive project. There will always be things you can do to it, but you want a solid roadworthy truck to...

Things that add value - Hardtop adds $500 PTO winch adds $1000-$1500 Dropside bed adds $500 Dual circuit brakes add $1500-$2500 C turbo adds $400 Spin on filter conversion is desirable (fuel and oil) Air shift transfer doesn't so much add value, but a sprag transfer detracts from value and...

THIS! Most LEDs have resistors built into them and will tolerate 10-30v. Unlikely that yours are 12v only. (Possible, but unlikely)

Not plausible. Graph of examples - Edit to add 2nd graph - 135dB sounds plausible. I'm glad you got it successfully installed. I learned something about the dB scale as a result....

350db? Really?

The goal is to get the truck onto a trailer for transport. Options- 1) try to air up the existing tire on the truck. It's likely an O-ring or CTIS problem and will hold air long enough to get loaded. This is the best option. Least amount of work and highest chance of success. 2) if it wont...

That is NOT an M977 HEMTT rim. Discussion as to whether an M977 rim will fit an MTVR will yield information that is irrelevant to the OP. I agree that unless other information is forthcoming, the OP should plan to swap tires but not wheels.

How many amps do you need to run at any given time? Presumably you're doing load balancing, but there's still a number you need to hit. What is it?

I hate to hack on trailers. So here's how I resolved it - Although I don't have a tailgate now, it didn't interfere when one was present.

As I understand Steve, the fan is locked and turning with the engine at engine speed when the engine is running. Not being carried along by parasitic drag. Not "completely normal". Fan is engaged when it shouldn't be. And unable to turn by hand when the engine isn't running.

Any reason not to do this preemptively if you have the old style cooling loop?

I have a question (obviously). I understand why we don't want ATF in the hubs, diffs, and air cleaner. I don't quite understand why a moderately overfilled t-case is a bad thing. It states it'll overheat. What is the mechanism? In another unrelated application, deliberately overfilling a G56...

Drifting way off topic, but similar check digits are sent as part of the framing and line coding of standard telecom signals. This allows the receiving station to know whether data was dropped- if your check sum doesn't match the data, then you know the data was corrupted.

Absolutely agree. The first thing to do if having fuel issues is replace every soft line between the tank and the engine. The fittings are also suspect, as is the lift pump itself. Also the pick up straw in the tank. It can be maddening and frustrating beyond words. I went through this...

The prime button should have a rubber cover over it. Missing cover is a possible indicator of an old pump. Using the prime button should be a fairly rare event, after changing a filter or cracking the lines or something similar. Priming should not be routinely needed. I suspect your lift...

Possibly air in the lines. The fitting at the top of the lift pump is a prime culprit. Can you describe symptoms in more detail? Is it driveable?

Which truck? Which engine?