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about 10 years ago i saw a gl sale truck at aberdeen, md that showed 92,000 miles. it was a pipeline truck, had a window in the block and was real rusty.
yeah, doghead i know, but so far everyone seems to be talking about stock tires.
mph = ( rpm * radius) / ( 168 * ratio)
final ratio in 5th is 5.31, numbers don't lie, do the math yourself......not impling anything, just providing the source for facts. tom
i read this thread with some interest, mostly amusement. it is 80% BS. red line for the engine is to begin with being grossly exceded. gearing and tire size is a mathematical given and does not lie or exagerate. as far as i know, i have the ONLY deuce with a stock engine that will truly run over...
i will try to put a bar graph on the site soon, but with 9:00-20 tires the change in mph at 2500 rpm is from 53.95, stock to 64.2 with the new gears. (56.84 mph at 2300 rpm)
with 14.5R20 which give the increase of about 5 mph in themselves, 2500 rpm is 67.39. (62.0 mph at 2300 rpm) a bobed...
several people wanted to know how hard it was to install so i have updated web page to include installation manual. have driven .69 gear set and decided that is the only ratio i will have made as it is only a few % higher and performs well. with 14.5R20, 2300 rpm is 62 mph...
TD means the area where the threads for the head bolts/studs is thicker so the head bolt torque is quite a bit higher. if you are going to put gaskets on a non TD block at least be sure to have heads resurfaced, no matter how flat you think they are they will need to be perfect to have a better...
there are 2 major discussions here in the past about this with LOTS of pictures, go search. and i disagree about the 710 being marginaly better than air o matic. you can steer 14.5r20 sitting still with one finger, but has very good feel when driving. i have built 3 of these now and gerhard has...
i put a/c on my unimog u1300. cab is much bigger, some insulation and is sealed very well. kysor roof cond/evap unit used $20, volvo compressor used $25 made 2 pulleys some a/c hoses and-----------cold enough but not for 100f days.
forget about kysor unless you get a super deal on complete...
the wear marks you refer to are on one side of the spline the syncro goes on? they are there to help hold it in gear when decelerating. when accelerating the play in things tends to pull the 4/5 hub into the gear as most have seen by the shifter wanting to move forward. usually wear on the 4/5...
legal or not, if something fails and you kill or worse yet maime someone with a 14000 lb truck, they will own you for the rest of your life. is it worth is?? there are plenty of full hydraulic power steering systems that will go right on a m-35 and you can steer with one finger. now we know...
chaplain, 3000 rpm was 74 mph. .66 overdrive. got 10 mpg and was not afraid of hills. overdrive kits for the 3053 are just a few weeks away from being here. see http://mysite.verizon.net/milveh/transmission/overdrive.html
they make a puller for the pilot. you can also split one side and collapse it so it will come out easy did the trans go into 1st and rev easily? if clutch problem they will gring since clutch is dragging. a good trans shifts easily in all gears within speed range and will go easily back into 2nd...
just a little info for everyone. the trans holds 5 qts of oil and must be full up to the bottom of the fill plug. also even tho you say your flywheel was pretty smooth, it and the pressure plate must be very smooth for a new disk of this type to work correctly since there is so little surface...
there should be a tapered rubber plug at the bottom of the box. take it out and remove the horn button, it is a straight shot through the steering shaft. do not take the 4 bolts out, it will not help as it has nothing to do with the horn wire.
well, it was oct of 2007 that i made the first post about this.
i am installing the newly made gears in my truck now to drive and be sure they are quiet. plan to place order for 30 sets next week if all goes well with testing. 6 to 8 weeks for delivery to me is possible.
as long as you can pull the fuel shut off, you can kill it. just see that the shut off operates before you crank it. as to the clutch in 5th gear, once the engine is past 8000 rpm i doubt it would stop it...............
to address a couple of questions, if you can get the trans out of the vehicle and on the ground, you are 70% there. this is a very easy, simple transmission to work on. i plan to include instructions with each kit and provide free phone support. you need to have a small puller to remove the rear...
the project is not dead, in fact i hope it is just getting ready to really come to life in a big way. samples have been made and are being inspected and analyzed. anyone who is not on the 'list' should e-mail me directly to get on it, waterloospecialties@hughes.net progress has been slow at...
when the brakes are not applied, the service line is vented to the line that goes up the firewall near the air filter. so if you put air into the service line, it will just go out the vent. when you apply the brakes this vent is closed by a valve in the airpack and this vent line cannot be...
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