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The parts you mentioned are EXTREMELY hard to find. If at all. Try inquiring on G503. Not much armor discussion here.

Slobbering pump vent means it’s time for an overhaul. I’ve had ATF in service for 12 years now. Seems to be ok.

That helps. The factory changeover from WTEC 2 to WTEC 3 happened around January 1998. So that is the difference you are challenged with. I would NOT change transmission internals. I would upgrade the harness and controller and VIM. Rumor has it there was a kit to install a 3 transmission...

What year model truck is the blown transmission out of and what year model is the rolled transmission out of?

I had a 11.00-20 NDCC that did this too. One day it blew out into a million pieces at 55 mph. I would not use that tire for anything other than trails.

Suggest you dismount the tire and look for belt separation or defects. This is unusual.

I don't see anything that stands out as cyl wall gouges. I would run it.

The fairing which replaces the cab roof is spot welded to the windshield frame and the ambulance box.

The box with cutaway cab attached should bolt right onto a first generation Dodge Cummins truck chassis. Some body mounts may be different.

This is the early starter. The foot pedal on the later M38 and M38A1 is above the transmission cover.

That picture is of the later starter engaged entirely by the foot pedal. Super early M38s had a different starter but I could have sworn it was activated in the same way. I could be wrong, I am not a super early M38 guru.

Some DRMO sites (surplus yard) made the turn in units drain the fluids so they didn’t have to, expecting that the trucks would get cut up.

Site sponsor Eastern Surplus has the tops.

Someone jerry rigged that lever. Suggest you go back to stock setup.

You must follow the TM instructions to a T. Jack up front end and turn wheel lock to lock 500 times or something like that to bleed air.

The box is throughly grafted onto the cab, the cab roof and entire back wall is cut away. You would need a new cab to make a pickup.

Pull choke if cold, turn on ignition, mash the starter on the floor, release when engine starts. All 40’s and 50’s cars and trucks had the floor starter button.

Welcome. Yes you are in the right place for help with your 880. On the website header, find "TM", then navigate to "M880 TMs", then find TM9-2320-66-20, the wiring diagram is figure 2-12. If you have the blackout kit added, that is figure 3-17. Good luck!

I forgot, does that truck have a neutral safety switch that could be stuck?

Dirty front wheels can be attributed to leaky knuckles or leaky wheel cylinders. I have found that brake fluid somehow magically disappears even with no visible leaks. In your case I would check level frequently.