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M101A2 Surge brake shock failed on my tan trailer. Searched for well over an hour Saturday night on the net trying to find the best price on the p/n 1844-2 shock. (Croft Trailer has the best price BTW). Was about to buy one from Croft and came across a eBay listing. Boy did I luck out! So...

Ok Good to know

I’ve read here on SS of guys doing that backing up their driveway, not knowing the brakes needed to be locked out. Some even kept trying until parts broke.

Dexter FreeBack brakes. Easy swap and hassle free. Biggest pain was putting trailer on jacks. Dexter makes great stuff and is the OEM Military supplier for some of the M101A2/3 parts.

Off roading or 4 wheeling? I’ve read it’s mostly personal preference on whether to disable them or not. If the trailer is loaded at all and you try to back up an incline, the brakes will activate. Always carry a pin or bolt to lock them out. Dexter makes a surge brake unit called FreeBack...

The hole just forward of my lockout pin.

It’s for overall hardness of the steel is my understanding. Its heat treated differently. The shear strength is improved along with the tensile strength. Grade 10 isn’t usually carried by the box stores but that’s a bit overkill anyway.

You’ve gone this far, might as well install the whole thing. Last time I was in the mountains of Utah, temps dropped to -18*. To me, that definitely qualifies install of whole kit.

Grade 5 isn’t strong enough if trailers heavy. Others have done that and it bent the bolt. Making removal a total nightmare. Several threads about it.

Croft trailer has the least expensive shock. Its an OEM one from Hydro-Act. https://www.crofttrailer.com/1844-2-hydro-act-actuator-damper-shock/ Agree on what others are saying. Your shock has failed. You can insert a 3/8”x4” grade 8 bolt in the brake lockout hole so you can still use the...

Nice pic. Beautiful country down there for sure.

There is a cargo cover kit. It’s collapsible when needed. You would need The radios to really complete it. Not sure what was in the cab as all the radio base units were in the rack. All the racks and mounts were already removed when I picked up mine at Ft. Hood. Not my truck...

Perform the above mentioned recommendations as needed. But also make sure your heater blend door is closing all the way. It’s behind the glovebox. If it’s not closing properly, it’s also letting cold air in and that’s why it’s not as hot as it could be. I had the same issue after getting...

Good luck

That will work

Looks good. Exhaust stack kinda stands out now. BBQ grill paint works great for that.

Oh forgot. The push button light switch is known for catching on fire. Search threads about it. A Known issue

Wouldn’t it be so much easier to just put it back like it left the factory? There’s your military theme. Like it was. Your truck of course, but the more you hack into wiring, the more problems you will have later. Plus no one will be able to help since it’s a Frankenstein of sorts.

One of the first things I did when first getting truck is install gauges. Oil pressure , Water temp, Trans temp. The VM was missing so installed a 24v one. Last and best one was RPM. Took some time as I researched it quite a bit. Bought the VDO model and it reads the signal from GEN1 and...

I have an ISSPRO 24v voltmeter and my Fluke DMM says it’s spot on. Don't skimp on gauges. The VMs aren’t that expensive anyway. They are the eyes on the health of the truck.