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there is noise, if that is what you would call it, in 1st and rev since they are cog gears. but there is normally NO noise in any other gear. if there is, there is some problem. many of these transmissions are plagued by water and resulting rust because of the shift boot location and a leaking...

but the point is that when everything is right, no noise.

RE: Oil line there are two of them and they are probably the same age. replace them both.

you could just have a worn ip head plus timing is critical, check it. take the little piece on top and in front of the ip head off, 4 small bolts. turn engine until pointer lines up with line, look at timing marks on front pulley. do all this with the shutoff pulled out so it won't start.

oil pressure supply line to injection pump

first, no shimpacks. second the gear you show under pitting is 3rd gear and looks new, that is the way they will look until they wear in which will take quite a while. you have a broken tooth on 5th countershaft gear. you will need to pull the trans to remove the countershaft. replacing the gear...

adam if you have seen it first hand, lets see some pics or better info................

well it looks to me like everything is in the right place. 50 ft lbs is way too much, you just want to seat the bearings, the weight of my breaker bar is enough to do it.

you will not like the high noise level...............

i was told 1 month. my overdrive gears should have been 3 mths ago if things had gone more smoothly. i will post details on the steering as soon as i know more.......................

temp is much more important than boost. mine runs 14 to 15 psi at 1050 f. do not try this without a pyrometer.

are your hood latches upside down??

ah, the engine oil drain(?) for the govenor housing. i would think it would have the same oil as the engine, from wence it came??

yes, 1"

if you are thinging of the six allen screws, they are access ports for internal passages and are not drains

it is really simple, just put one 12 volt jump pack on 0ne 12 volt battery. do it twice and you have 24 volts (the batteries are in series) if the truck batterier are really dead this will not give you much crank time.

the worst thing regarding the ip would be having to replace the 2 'o' rings under the ip head, not very hard to do. to check for leaking lower 'o' ring you need to remove and plug the overflow valve port and pressurize the supply port to 60 psi. do this with the shutoff lever cover off, and any...

taking the winch apart is not for the first time mechanic. very easy to break things as parts of it will not want to come apart.

straight atf or motor oil would not cause problems, probably has a broken scynro

the most likely and usual leak point is the lower ip head 'o' ring