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Ok, looking at Grits' previous posts, I am going to guess he has an M151. So I am going to move this thread over to the 151 section and see if I can't find some thread relevant to the differences between A1, A2, etc.

The website help forum is for stuff like "I can't get pictures to upload" and stuff like that. Tell us what vehicle you have and I'll find the right forum and move the thread for you and maybe even find some good links for you. Deuce, 151, etc.?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?17831-5-Ton-Axle-Gearing http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?103605-5-ton-axles-ratio http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?86320-M923-Gear-Ratios

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?41185-Winch-installation http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?6224-adding-a-winch-to-a-non-winch-truck http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?40398-Deuce-is-now-WW-or-winch-install-pics You guys need to be directing people to the...

Jeez, how many years did you have to take off from work and life to do all that? Looks amazing.

Jeez louise, we had pics of the Ga Rally 4 days before it officially started!

Ok, all joking aside now.......... Isn't the activation of the charging circuit what creates the load? I.e master power switch is off, belt is simply turning the reciprocating mass of the alternator. Switch on, alternator "sees" battery voltage and attempts to charge, alternator sees load...

This is gonna' sound smart alecky, but if the belts have been slipping, the batteries may not be fully charged, which means the alternator is under a heavier load trying to recharge them. :) Don't know. Did you, before swapping: A. Put a multimeter on it and check the output B. Check the...

This is gonna' sound smart alecky, but tight enough for it not to squeal and loose enough not to burn up alternator bearings. Also, those belts are designed to be a matched pair, meaning both belts cut from the same piece. So they are both identical to one another. Ask your parts house for a...

Bingo! I've always done it by feel (i.e. how tight to make the belt) but there is actually a tool to measure belt tension. Of course, you'd have to know what the spec is for the tension for this to help...

How tight is the belt?

You have a source for US made, high quality units? And what about the air shift switch under the dash? It uses the one piece molded connector I am trying to stay with. The air operated MWO switch has 2 individual packards.

This is a longtime SS member, very knowledgeable. Go spend all day and reading his site: http://www.garbee.net/~cabell/ You won't regret it, grasshopper.

Both plates go under the dash panel.

Yes, see that's my issue. I am sure I can find a functional replacement (Echlin, BW, Bosch, etc.). Let's face it-a 60psi trigger point and 1/4" MPT are easy parameters to satisfy but I don't want a bunch of hacked of wiring under my dash where it's visible. I can live with cutting the harness...

I have had multiple (5 or 6) of the new, hydraulic style brake light switches fail by sticking shut (closed circuit). 4 on brakes systems and 2 on air. I seem to remember recently a thread where people were discussing the low reliability of the new (I assume their Newstar China junk) switches...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?18934-Deuce-engines http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?31388-Which-multi-fuel-engine-is-the-best-choice http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?31284-Engine http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?38347-Hercules-vs-Continental-engine

Covered here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?67616-Ouverson-engineering-4-90-gear-set Many others, but that one is the most relevant. EDIT: Since the above thread was derailed with arguing about merits of making MV's go faster, you can also read all these...

I forgot this thread. It should answer all your questions and provides some excellent pictures: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?11232-Front-mini-light-kit-lights

Ran out of light. Will try and shoot tomorrow.