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Will you be hauling round bales or square bales with one of these?

A pro radiator shop will unsolder the tanks from the core and run rods through the tubes and remove the “basic junk” which plugs the flow.

Get the radiator rodded out is my suggestion

Yes. This is a very tricky process as the oil pump drives the distributor. When you pull the pump out, it turns due to the helical gear. So basically it is impossible to re-stab the pump and have it re-engage the tab on the distributor. My suggestion: roll the engine to #1 cylinder top...

OMG yes. There are hundreds of threads on here about fixing all the unresolved design issues on these trucks and now also all the age related issues that are cropping up. Unless you plan on using this truck on a farm at low speed, plan on doing lots of upgrades. Or get left on the side of the...

Probably your rear shoes have stuck to the drums. Climb up under the axles and see if the shoes retract when someone operates the button. If not try whacking the drums with the brakes released, (chock the wheels!!!). Might also try to break the shoes loose in 1st gear full throttle.

Not exactly. Your truck has an interesting history. Your truck was the 312th LMTV off the assembly line in Sealy back in '94 and was quickly shipped to Army units that were eagerly awaiting the replacements for the old M35A2s and A3s. Unfortunately the Army quickly determined that if you...

No different than here in deep red Texas. O’Reilys is about it for DOT 5 at retail. Great progress in field conditions!

Hmm Cat didn’t put the serial on that one. I wonder why your ‘97 has a ‘93 engine in it. Well anyway, the ‘94 to ‘98 engines are basically the same. You could use someone else’s serial number for parts purposes if your sn is lost forever.

Is the decal still on the valve cover? The s/n is printed there. ‘97 engine is mechanical, no ECU.

Thanks for the write up and sorry that happened. Oh and diggin' your Colorado, I am looking at getting one too.

Truck should get to rippin' in all gears. Lots of possibilities: carb issues, ignition timing, engine missing, brakes dragging, low tire pressure ...

Back before YRC went tits up, I was able to ship a set of these for half the UPS quote. Not sure now.

What can happen with ignition coils is that the copper windings inside can have good continuity, but the insulation has broken down, allowing the high voltage to jump to ground inside. A multimeter does not have sufficient voltage to test for this breakdown. You would need an expensive...

Video title is offensive and false, no view revenue from me.

Probably the first 15 minutes of driving the top speed is around 40. Yeah grades will kill your speed, welcome to 1950's power to weight ratios. You are probably right though, carb ignition timing etc has to be pretty close to perfect to get the raging 130 hp.

On mine, until the gear cases are hot, I can't get full governed speed either. The cold viscous gear oil sucks up a lot of power.

The plastic box? Part of the fording system. Unless you plan on driving though 4 feet of water, you can leave it off.

As far as “boggy”, the 302 doesn’t have a lot of azz under 2500 rpm. You can force high rpm shifts by using “hilly”. The 302 is ok with 3400 rpm all day, she’s screaming but that’s how uncle ran her back in the day.

Looks like 42 nd Infantry Division (New York National Guard), 2nd Battalion, 108th Infantry Regiment, Headquarters company, 85th truck assigned to company. Very storied history to this day. TP45 is of course tire pressure.