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This is a very common problem. Remove it again, clean it again, install and see if it leaks. Repeat. Just be sure to tighten the fitting as little as possible because if it cracks or you crack the flare on the line, you need a new line. Which means pulling the manifold and most of the other...
Clint hasn't chimed in yet so I didn't want to doom his M715 project by writting he could drive mine while I ride with Colton. Hopefully, Clint will have his 350/3053A M715 done by then. That will then mean another person is needed.
That better Lincoln?
Switching from direct drive to redux to direct drive on the starter brings up another question. Do you have the proper support bracket for each starter? They are different and could be why the original nose cone cracked.
As the varied replies show. Get whatever you want as long as it has more than around 800 CCA per battery. I went Red Tops on my 6.2 powered M715. I went to get another set for my son's M1009, RED, last weekend. We ended up getting a pair of Oreilly Group 31 batteries with the exact same...
I am so glad BMJP stuck with the 3rd weekend instead of changing to the end of Spring Break like they used to always be. I am taking my Scouts out to climb mountains during spring break and was worried about missing the Rally. It just might all work out.
Colton and I will be there with the...
Look up Stanadyne dealers for your area. I found a guy in Bryan that will do it for $500. There are cheaper ones on Ebay but by the time you figure in shipping, they come pretty close to the same thing. Talk to your local tractor repair places too. Same basic IP as what a lot of tractors...
Did you get going again?
Yes that is the IP. It is a Stanadyne DB-2 There is a metal tag on the side that has a bunch of numbers after it. I think there are 44 or so combinations of what exact model you could have. Several threads have been written about the numbers. It all boils down to...
Remember, the manuals were written by people thinking about how they could be mis interpreted by Soldier B.
The rear drive shaft can not be stopped from spinning when the truck moves unless it is physically removed from the rear axle.
The fronts have lock out hubs. They are easy to put in...
The rev it up, let off and engine dies always means the IP is in need of work. The turning off when hot is often the solenoid controlled by the pink wire. SOunds like you do need a new IP.
Where in Texas are you?
Ummmmm…...
Section 2-41 of the -10 manual says you can tow the truck up to 50 miles at speeds up to 35 mph with both in neutral. Faster or further and the TM says to drop both drive shafts.
Sure, others have done it different. I just drop the rear drive shaft and make sure the front lock...
The IP is easier to install than a distributor from scratch on a v8 gasoline engine. The gear it bolts to is in the timing cover. There are 3 bolts and a locating pin. Basically, it can't be put on wrong as long as the gear hasn't been removed with the pump out. The rest of the install is...
All of the CUCV vehicles had the same engine and transmission. A few of the trucks had NP205 transfer cases while the rest had NP208's. This made the supply and maintenance pipelines very simple. Only the M1009 had 3.08 gears and the small tires Warthog mentioned. Everything else had 4.56...
Since this thread came back to life I might as well add some current info.
I threw a rod on my 396 Big Block in the M715 in March 2012. It happened on start up with a hydrolocked cylinder. Not doing some crazy hi rpm mud run. Anyway, I put a HMMWV pull out 6.2 in last winter and have been...
Sorry I haven't helped on this thread any. Been a busy week.
The big mouth, small mouth is for automatic (small) or manual (big.)
I got my big mouth nose cone from NAPA. Joe was correct on the price being around $15 or so.
All of the above is for a direct drive 27MT.
All of the redux drive...
Even with an electric pump, you have to turn the engine over to get fuel going out the injector lines to the injectors. When I installed the 6.2 in my M715 I had an unknown hair line crack in a fitting before my electric lift pump. I could fill the fuel filter up with the pump,bleed all the...
Are you familiar with the sweet smelling blue/white smoke that happens when the glow plugs don't work as good or as long as they should and the engine has to crank 3-10 seconds to start?
Is it that or the burned wiring smell you are getting?
Just trying to help narrow down wiring or exhaust.
The theory is that gasoline engines need around 60 rpm to start and diesels need around 180-200 rpm to start. Good load tested batteries and a good starter are essensial.
The direct drive starter is super easy to rebuild yourself. You build your M715 all those years ago, you can do the...
The best method I have figured out to change the single fuel supply line under the intake is this:
Get a 3/8 drive ratchet with a 1/4 short socket. (It might be 5/16, but I haven't done this in a few months and don't remember)
Get a lawn chair pad, sleeping mate, something soft and flexible...
The 6.2 wiring is really very easy. Constant power to the top of the IP to turn it on (pink wire). Constant power to the sensor on the passenger side outside rear of the head that controls power to the cold advance/fast idle solenoids (green wire). Both pink and green need to come on and go...
Warthog beat me to it. I took a M1009 pull out engine with the entire M1009 engine wiring and swapped everything over to a HMMWV pull out engine to put in my M715. I followed the wiring diagrams from the CUCV -20 manual. I drove it to work today, works great.
As the other Joe pointed out...
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