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Your parking brake cables are rusted and not letting the brakes turn off. Crawl under the truck in front of the drivers side rear tire. Wiggle the parking brake cable housing and it might let go. I had the same thing happen last year 200 miles from home. $40-$50 to LMC and all was fixed a...

I also did the sheet metal screw into the metal under the gauge panel. To make the cable slide, I put a starter motor to starter solenoid copper spacer over the screw. Works great.

You need to pressure test the cooling system. Some auto parts stores will rent a pressure tester to you. They just screw on where the radiator cap goes. Pump the cooling system up to 15-17 psi. Then listen for where the leaks are coming from. If you hear/feel the leak in the radiator...

How long do you use the starter for each start up? If you engine and glow plug system is in good tune, 1/2-1 second is about all it will get used. If you have to crank 5-20 seconds everyday for starting, the starter will not last very long.

I know this is a day later, but did you test your old one first? The fast idle/cold advance switch only works when the coolant is below 95°. If you are having hot starting problems, this isn't the problem. My trucks haven't had fast idle in the afternoon here in Texas for a few weeks now...

Congrats on Patrick doing so well. Nice trailer too.

A regular gas engine inductive timing light with a rpm display hooked to a pulse signal convertor works great. Most people already have the timing light but need to buy the $75-$100 convertor. I would suggest a $100 tiny tach install and then you can tell your rpm's all the time.

If you have to crank more than about 1-2 seconds hot or cold. You have a fuel delivery issue building. Pull the check valve in the return system on top of the IP and see if the little glass ball has caught a bunch of IP parts in it. Start thinking IP replacement though. My first M1009 had a...

Rich said it all. We all have different ways of doing things though. I prefer using my arms to pull/push on the tire sideways while trying to find the fine line between no slop and slop. But, the pry bar does the same thing. Vehicles with the lock nut such as the 1028 I normally set the...

While I was finding and fixing the loose motor mounts bolts on the Bomber last week. I also found all 4 inner fender to cab bolts loose. They looked fine while doing tire or brake work. It wasn't until I was under the truck wondering how to pick up the engine and get the motor mount bolt back...

I forgot to add that a 1988 Navy K30 being worked on in my class didn't even have the nuts for the motor mount bolts when I checked it after I found the problem on the bomber.

My 1984 former USAF 6.2 powered C20 Suburban was running great. I stopped at the store on the way home from work the other day. I fired it up and even though it sounded ok. There was a noticeable vibration. At idle, in gear and while driving. It ran like normal though. It did make a weird...

I completely agree. It makes no difference. I wired my M715 up exactly like a CUCV when I put the 6.2 in it a few months ago. I had the 12V power pulled from the positive of the front battery. However, while my students were looking at the wiring diagram, they kept telling me I had it wrong...

Post 14 and 16 in this thread: http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?p=225631#post225631 I didn't want to post somebody elses pictures, so I linked instead.

Thanks for posting that picture Rory. I have never seen it before. I will have to look for it, but there is a thread on the Zone about M715 gun trucks and if they ever existed. Somebody, I think Beast, posted a few shots of what looks like the same truck your picture shows in the motor pool...

There isn't a step down. If you put your volt meter negative lead on the front battery negative terminal and positive lead on the front battery positive terminal, you will get 12-14.4 volts. If you put your volt meter negative on the rear battery negative terminal and the positive lead on the...

Glad to hear the noise is gone. Did you figure out which injector might have been the noisy one?

I bought new injector tips a few years ago and started putting them in the M1009 one at a time. I fired it up after each one to check for leaks. When I started it after the 3rd one, I had a severe knock. I tried to give it throttle and the noise hurt. I had a spring that wasn't right.

Taking the valve cover off is a major endeavor. I would suggest you check all the injectors for being tight. Use a 3/4" open end wrench to lossen the line, use a 7/8" open end to make sure the injector is tight and then to hold the injector while you tighten the line back up. Do all 4 on each...

Make sure it is the throttle shaft seal before you go pulling everything apart. There are 8 injector lines and any of them could be loose. The IP fuel supply line also screws in there and could be leaking. Then you have the hose from the filter to the IP. It is 1/4". I really could just be...