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I've been in the governors before, but only with the engine removed. Not sure how well you can see or access things unless you at least remove the radiator and housing. After that removing the front cover is simple. I've seen issues with incorrectly assembled internal linkage and other issues...
Thank you Guy. on the pump itself it says American Bosch Type PSU 2/4-80E-9328A
Looking in the TM for part numbers, it only shows the plunger as being part of the entire hydraulic head assembly, Onan PN 147-0323
The drive pin looks to be available as part of kit 147-0306 but haven't been able to...
So, I learn something new every day! Today I went to work on my last 002a I have yet to finish and it has an injection pump problem.
The typical stuck plunger and stiff control lever etc. I took it out and disassembled it to find the plunger broken in half.
I pulled the pump off of a spare...
Good work tracking down the problem, but I have a bit of a concern with the repair. I believe the item in question is a voltage regulator. It is mounted to the aluminum case which does act as a heat sink. Given that the component has shorted internally, I would be concerned that is would fail...
My only thoughts on the 1/8" line is that it may be too small to fit over the plastic barbed fittings. You might be ok if the hose id soft and flexible enough, but if it's too small you may split the hose down the side trying to force it on. I've never tried anything that small, but you won't...
Sounds like you have something wrong under the IP cover. When you open it up, check the springs and the linkage to make sure nothing is gummed up or out of place. There is also a little "hydraulic dampener" in there ( like a cylinder and plunger with a small relief hole in the side ) if that is...
In the TM section of this forum you can find the manuals for this machine, the removal and install instructions are in the section about the Injection pump. It's pretty straight forward. There is a flat spacer shim and an o-ring against the block. You can usually reuse the o-ring, I have seen...
I don't think either of the PN's you listed are what you need, they both seem like rebuild gasket kits.
You need a new control lever assembly PN. CU 8514A , item 14 in the Ambac pump diagram. This will come with the external o-ring on it.
When the throttle lever leaks around the shaft it's the...
The leak is most likely the seal inside the control lever assembly, not the external o-ring. I'd just get a new control lever kit. You have to take the pump off to change it so might as well be sure it's fixed the first time!
So yes, if you go on ebay you can find tons of 3.5mm diesel fuel line. It's very common on Mercedes Benz etc. mostly made by Continental. rubber hose with a braided cloth covering. That said, you can also use plain rubber vacuum hose from the parts store. You want 5/32" . However, Viton is a...
Don't be fooled into thinking the leak is coming from the seal between the metering pump and the block. There is nothing there but motor oil. Your leak is likely a return line that is leaking down from up top and pooling up around the metering pumps and governor / throttle linkage.
Clean it up...
It sounds like you are just running the machine without a load? If you are set up to apply some load to it, I would get the batteries charged up fully and then run it under maybe a 25% load and see what happens. You may have a weak fuel pump that is not supplying enough fuel to keep you going...
Hello, well for starters, pulling off 1 battery cable should not have killed the engine. The alternator should have kept it going, so in addition to the rough running condition you also have a charging system problem.
As to the rough running, I assume the engine rpm is fluctuating in tune with...
Some leakage into the crankcase is normal. There are 3 major reason for this, but suffice to say a small amount of leakage is normal.
If you were to put a 5/8" socket on the blower wheel bolt and just give the crank a slight bit of pressure off of the bottom of the stroke, the air leakage should...
I hear you... I agree, given the situation I say slap in a new valve, lap all 4 valves while you're there, replace the head gasket.
Before putting it all back together just pop the head on and pressure test it again, if it seems good, complete the assembly and fire up.
My only question would be...
The K1 circuit interruptor system is relatively easy to troubleshoot. If you push up and hold the switch do you get any power to lugs or the light come on while holding it? If not, first thing to do is take off the top cover to access the K1 relay in the back left corner behind the wall where...
Your main tank has a combination float in it that works both the aux. pump as well as tripping the "low fuel" warning light and it shuts off the fuel pump when you get almost empty, so you can't just move the lines around, you would need to bypass the low fuel warning circuit.
Now, if you were...
If your compressor can't keep up, you will probably find an obvious problem once you get the head off ( which is a very simple job )
Probably gonna find catastrophic valve damage on the bad cyl. , something more than just a small leak. If you can't see any valve damage, flip the head upside...
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