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Well, at least in my case the lines have to stay with the engine. Long lines work fine with short injectors and short lines work fine with long injectors.

Once you figure out the wiring. You will still have a truck not wanting to start below 40°. I would recommend pulling the 13G glow plugs even though they tested ok and put in 8 new 60G glow plugs. I have some glow plugs that test ok with an ohm meter and never get hot when I test them in a...

Stand if front of your truck with the hood open. The oil fill tube is at the front top of the engine. Behind that is the aluminum coolant cross over pipe. Right behind that in the middle is the IP. There is a black neoprene hose coming off the IP going toward the coolant cross over. It will...

I would suggest a fuel and air filter replacement first. Does it do this in every gear? Pull the return line check valve on the top of the IP and look through it. Can you see through it or is it all filled up with crud? Black little spec crud. If it is filled up, your IP is coming apart and...

Were the line tie downs at the valve covers on? Did you put on a new triangle shaped gasket between the pump and the block? Did you put anything on the gasket to make it stick better or be slippery? Turn your old pump by hand. It is pretty easy to turn. Now, put a little sideways pressure...

Hmmm. Thank you for the information. That is what I was looking for.

I ordered the vinyl floor from LMc and have been trying to install it this week. Non heated shop and 30° temps make that stuff not want to bend at all. We should warm up some soon. I will get pictures when it is done.

That could very well be. We bolted the short lines up to the long injectors this afternoon. Not a bit of trouble making things fit that way. Once we finish painting the valve covers, we will put them on Monday and try the long lines with the short injectors.

My M1009 did fine until the first cold spell a few years ago. My leak and probably your leak as well was from the drive side throttle shaft seal. There is nothing wet near the mounting flange except engine oil from the timing gear area. Mine would leak anytime it was below 50° out. Then be...

I am putting a HMMWV can 6.2 in my M715. It had the long injectors which resulted in the #6 and #8 lines hitting my heater housing when we test fitted the engine. Not to worry I thought because Warthog has a 1988 CUCVII/contract military truck with a 6.2 and short injectors in my pasture. I...

I finally got a chance to look in the -20P. Taking the number for the bolts I assumed were 7/16" and doing a search gets this: http://www.ctg123.com/rapid-quote-system/request/?p=MS90728-92 Standard by the way I read it.

If that doesn't work and you have a high pain tolerance. Remove the starter, clean up the bolt shaft and try welding a nut to it. A 3/8" nut welded on the inside should keep you from getting anything on the block. I would also suggest holding the nut with the welding ground lead because you...

Keith, I didn't even try metric on there. Didn't even think about it. 5/8 and 11/16 wrenches fit all of the fasteners I assumed where 7/16. 9/16 fit all of what I assume are 3/8 fasteners. Now you have me wondering. I will have to study the -P manuals to see if it list out what they are for...

LMC and O'Reilly's both have the straps at $29 the set. I thought about doing the threaded rod thing since I had all the stuff apart. My reasons for not fabbing something up was I want that 224 pound when full tank secure. Yes, the skid plate is a great safety net and I am a great welder...

I second the kick panel vent door seal. I pulled a set off a truck the other day that had 1/4-1/2 inch gaps all around each door. No way is air going to be held by by that. Replacement doors are $29.99 each at LMC. Try putting duct tape on both housings and see if it stops.

I have been reading for years on here about how weak the M1009 pintle hitch really is. I have put thousands of miles pulling supposedly too heavy for the truck M101 trailers with no issues and no bending of anything. Granted, I haven't tried pulling any 105's or yanking trees out of the ground...

Sam, If everything works like it is supposed to with the lights off. Then goes stupid with the running lights on. The it almost for sure is the ground of one of the four running lights up front or the four rear running lights. My experience in 2 different 1009's and the Blue bomber Suburban...

Check at the positive and negative terminal for the battery charged by the alternator you are checking. Drivers side alternator does the front battery and passenger side alternator does the rear battery.

You need to narrow down which alternator is the problem. Put a volt meter across the terminals of a battery and then across both terminals of the other battery. 14.4 volts is what each battery should show with the engine running. If they are both there, hold the engine at a higher rpm and see...

A good way to understand how long to give them power is to remove one. Set it in a vice and put 12 volts to it. Count how long it takes to get all red. If you don't have 60G plugs, that is your maximum glow time. If you do have 60G plugs, it really doesn't matter except for how much battery...