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Almost all of the PCBs behave differently with regards to the "wait to start" LED. That activity is also affected by the outside temperature and engine temperature and the way the Glow Plug Controller or Temperature Sensor (depends on what box you have) interacts with the PCB. There's a lot of...
There have been plenty of write ups about the push button light switch and all of the reasons you don't want to use one. The biggest one being that you actually have to look at it when trying to operate it. The 3 level switch is purely tactile feel and much more reliable.
Kurt
There's a very good test procedure for the cooling system in the manuals that works well. If you haven't downloaded them then do so immediately. Unfortunately people don't know it's there. Search around and it'll help you resolve your issues. The cooling system can be a PITA to troubleshoot...
Spray a little WD40 or some Kroil on it and let it sit for an hour and see if that doesn't loosen it up. It won't contaminate your fuel. It's just an expansion plug like the ones used on boat transoms but if it's been sitting the rubber may be sticking to the filler neck.
Kurt
Because it's a very effective noise deadening coating besides being a great protectant. I Rhinolined my 151 and it removed about half of the vibration noise coming from the floor pan. That and it sealed up all the weld seams where water would wick into the body.
Kurt
Be extremely careful with what you read, even in military technical manuals. You have to keep in mind that this particular control box has changed half a dozen times and the manuals weren't always rewritten to accommodate the latest variants. This holds true for the parts manuals too. That...
If your system is cycling like that be thankful, they can be a real PITA to troubleshoot and repair. Diesel engines like to run hot and are more efficient at higher temps so your actually losing efficiency by running it at lower temps. If you want to get rid of the fan clutch / power loss...
There are 2 styles of cooling bands that go into the transfer case. The original was a "C" shaped loop with fittings that went through the transfer case wall and attached to the cooling lines. What would happen was people would overtorque the sealing nuts and that would twist the cooling band...
As the recipient of a new vehicle that you don't really know the history of I'd suggest changing ALL fluids, belts, and hoses. Crawl around under the truck and look for leaks or seepage at the CV joints and check the brake pad thickness for even wear all around. Take a good look at the...
In the 996 ambulance body I added a remote switch for the interior lights because climbing into the black hole at night was confusing for some people. The remote works great but I had an occasion where the lights got turned on while it was parked and even though they have all been replaced with...
I've replaced almost every tail light bulb with 10-30 volt LEDs so that everything is interchangable and the trailers can be pulled by military and civy trucks without having to do anything to the lamps other than make up a pigtail so everything plugs into everything else. The one issue I have...
Most good electrical shops can rebuild them for you. If it's one of the Leece-Neville units the regulators are up on ebay all the time for around $60. Six screws and your done. I always recommend replacing the brushes at the same time and blowing out the regulator cavity because carbon from...
Unfortunately in the shifter housing the holes are different sizes. The problem is not insurmountable though. I went to the local hardware store and bought a threaded brass reducing bushing that fit both the switch and the shifter housing. It's been working perfectly for 15 years now and cost...
Connect the +28v output to the top battery, the +14v output to the center link between the batteries and the ground to the battery ground (-). Something else to keep in mind: NEVER connect or disconnect your charging system with the engine running. It tends to get expensive real quick! After...
It's what they call a standard offset antenna mount for the HMMWV. It's intended to move the antenna to the outside of the vehicle so that it can be pulled forward and tied down for road march.
Kurt
KG6KMJ
The PCB does do a couple of other things than start the truck, for instance it stops the truck from starting if the batteries get connected backwards and it stops you from trying to start a truck that's already running.
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