Search results

Yeah it is hard to tell on my phone as well. I'll have to look at it on my computer.

If you go get the goldenrod fuel filter/ water separator from tractor supply it already filters down to 10 microns, which is good enough to go straight to your fuel tank with unless you are pumping WMO through it. Most commercial filling stations only filter down to 30 microns before the pump...

If this keeps up a mod will have to move the thread over to Pirate4x4.

Great, so which one is for the turbo? The top or bottom cylinder?

You still can't rule it out until you pull the second axle shaft.

Rusty, if you could get the part numbers for the studs from your buddy and post them here it would be great. Then we just need to get them posted in the deuce parts quick reference guide. Same with the 12 point rod bolts. Nobody wants to search through three dozen threads that are 30 pages long...

It is the same as the regular switch.

You could tell them it is a 1932 Buick skylark and that's what would come on your sf-97.

It won't work if you want to retain the rear suspension articulation. You would have to shorten the driveshaft enough that it would have a terrible angle and be prone to breaking u-joints when the suspension articulates. I doubt you would even be able to fearlessly drive through a roadside ditch...

I know, I know. Once they go through reman you never really know what you have. I'd like to think every engine was torn down and rebuilt with the same parts individually but I know better.

I have a complete ( not rebuilt) white motor with a 72' build date. Jake, you've seen it. The one I broke the throttle shaft off of. My continental in my truck, and both of my Continental LDS465-1a engines are all rebuilt in 91'. The LDS motors are all factory tolerance motors though. No...

Put the rear driveshaft back in ( or leave it out, doesn't really matter for this), then pull both rear axle shafts and drive it. If no pop( and I bet there wont be) it is in your rear end.

Better head studs and good gaskets with coppercote would just about eliminate all of our headgasket failures.

Can't help you there. I know free is free, but you have to find another filter base.

He still needs to pull BOTH rear axle shafts and drive it in front wheel drive to really eliminate the rear end. I feel it is something in there. With one axle shaft installed the guts still turn.

1/2"

I haven't been here as long as a lot of other members, but of all the reading I have done on engine failures on here, White seems to be the most failure prone. I like the Continentals myself.

Excellent, I shall commence fiddling.:mrgreen:

*** Whip cracking***:jumpin:

Well, looks like you may have to post something in the upcoming events section to get some more attention. I hardly ever scroll this far down the main page to see this stuff. I'm sure others are the same way.