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If you don't bleed it correctly you will never get the air out.

Couldn't hurt. Sounds more like hydraulic issues to me though. That's what mine was doing last week when I had to change my leaking master cylinder. And every once in a while I'll get some fluid seepage into the air side of the air pack and it'll cause a good pedal with poor stopping power. I...

There is a small plug on the back of the air pack facing the spare tire. It may be an Allen plug or a square head plug, I believe 1/8" npt. Pull that plug and step on and hold the brakes after you've built air pressure. See if brake fluid sprays out and covers the spare tire.

It is either still stuck in the shutoff collar ( highly unlikely at this point) or it has fallen down in the cavity below. You may need to remove the hydraulic head to fetch it. It looks almost like a super tiny little hammer.

Do not put a locker in the front unless you get manual locking hubs. You will not be able to turn it on pavement if you do.

Strip it of all the good parts and scrap the block I guess. It may be weldable, but as Patracy experienced, it doesn't always work.

So I'll see you in the morning? I bet the wife unit is just thrilled with all this isn't she?

Well yeah, it doesn't matter what Kind of chip you have, if the engine can't breathe well (cam) it isn't going to make good power. I'm certain that a good cam is key to making power with our engines, and the reason the cam is ground the way it is is to affect good fuel economy. Simply put you...

It was just a thought.

Under hood roll cage mount? Hood prop?

I was commenting regarding the use of the lighter tractor crankshaft. It would stand to reason that it would be at least slightly visibly lighter. As far as the material is concerned I know you can't tell the difference by just looking at them.

Yep. Mine has almost 70,000 miles on it now and I'll be happy if it lasts me until warm weather comes around again. It has served me well though. Quite a lot of blowby going on.

One has extra webbing on the back of the block around the freeze plug.

I'm just picking on you Kenny. That actually doesn't look too bad. Worlds better than using an 1101 bed.

Take the shoes and linings to a truck brake and clutch shop. They can set the rivets there. Or you can buy a riveting machine like I did.

Good God, it's going to look like a mongoloid...

If you are going to use this bed to put on a pickup as a replacement truck bed, I'm not sending it to you. I've never seen anything uglier than that...

If that were the case you should be able to see the difference between the two if you lay them side by side.

Keep in mind that antifreeze eats bearing metal fast. If you really have to keep running it with antifreeze in the crankcase then you will end up putting an engine in it instead of repairing it. And it doesn't eat the bearings from lack of lube either, it is a chemical reaction that pits them...

When you pull the top cover you should be able to see the problem. Whatever it is will be obvious. It will be fixable without removing the trans from the truck.