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It may be worth your time to pull the oil cooler and change the sealing O-rings. Should take less than an hour. At least that way you can eliminate the oil cooler if the problem persists.
You could maybe try bumping the timing. That will effect mileage. If for better or worse, I don't know.
Edit: Propane injection would certainly help it.
I stopped another oil leak and replaced all my belts. They all had 1985 cure dates and finally started coming apart. My tach drive adapter was leaking and blowing oil all over the front of the motor. All dry and clean now.
Sorry for the mistake. They looked like the speaker lights to me in the brochure I looked at. At least it is another available option for us. They certainly aren't the same trucklite headlights I have.
It could be battle damage, but I kind of doubt it. Frag may do damage like that, but it would likely be a larger pattern. A couple of the pock marks look like they could be 5.56, and maybe one 7.62, but 7.62 would have punched through that, and so would 5.56 inside 100 yards. I can't really...
True, I had an axle break off of a pallet and slide from one side of the bed to the other and it bashed a big section of the bedside out. The floor is strong, but the bedsides are not as heavy duty as you would think. The heavy D-ring tie down points are a must.
If you heat that area with a rosebud it will burn the rust off once it gets red hot, then you can weld up the craters and grind it smooth, then prime and paint.
Brownells has benchtop and full size parkerizing kits. They range from around $300 to around $2400. I bought the $2400 kit, but I'm a gunsmith so I needed the full setup.
When you replace the shoes, remember to back off the tension adjustment on the brake handle in the cab all the way, and make your initial tension adjustment from the cable end under the truck. This way you have full range of adjustment from the lever in the cab for the life of the shoes.
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