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Install the injector back in the head, connect it to the hydraulic head, then fire the motor up and let the fuel pressure blow the line out. It'll make a bit of a mess, but it should work.

Good deal

Yes it sounds like a cracked head, but it may surprise you. Coolant loss can be a real booger to diagnose properly.

Yes, that hole was torch cut. You still have a good bit of work ahead before you have a working genset.

The air system has to build to 120 psi before the system will engage. If you aren't building 120 psi, it won't work at all. The control module on the shifter tower should have one flashing light. It does take a while to air up a low tire with the ctis system, sometimes up to an hour if the tire...

Well, there goes that one again...

Cool, maybe I will actually have one of these junkers someday.

Cool. Let us know what you find. If you need a motor I'm sure we can come up with one. I have a few but I'm pretty far away from you.

All that concerns me with doing that is losing the multifuel capability.

Ok I couldn't tell in the other pic. Get a good flashlight and let us know what you find if anything when you get around to it.

Installed new shocks yesterday.

Skinny, that pic does not really help. The valve cover needs to be off to try and see the source of the steam. I'm still betting on a cracked head.

You could pull the oil pan, fill the cooling system, plug in a block heater( get one if you don't have one) then put the pressure tester on it and pressurize the system. With heat and pressure it may actually leak. This is how you can check the block for a cracked water jacket.

You need to do it again and inspect it very carefully to see where the steam is coming from. If from the head you will probably be able to see where it is coming from. If you can't see it, it is probably the block itself. Patracy mentioned that he had a similar failure.

When you shut it down, and it was steaming, did you take a flashlight and look down into the oil drain galleys to see where the steam was coming from? If so, and it was coming from far enough down that you couldn't see it then you are looking at a cracked water jacket which means a replacement...

The water jacket is the block. I'm betting on the head though.

I feel like you have a cracked head. You could pull the valve covers and run the truck up to operating temp and just observe what is going on in there. You may be able to see where the water is coming out of the crack at.

It is coming down to looking like a cracked water jacket or a cracked head near an oil drain galley from the valve train. It isn't a leak in the intake or combustion chamber because it would hydrolock a cylinder upon startup if that was the case. from the information you have given us it has...

It works. At some point I have to pull the cupola off and fix a leak, but it will work for now.

Not a bad idea to solder and heatshrink the new wire in place. I solder everything I repair or install eleictrically related on my truck.