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I'm dealing with this right now on a truck that has sat for 22 years. Pulled the HH off and reinstalled the button and retainer, dropped the shutoff lever in the ultrasonic cleaning tank to clean it and free it up because it was bad sticky. Replaced the HH o-rings, now I'm having a really hard...
You will have to fab some pretty good bracketry to keep it from bouncing around and breaking off. Do not mount it to the fiberglass top, it won't hold. Otherwise I think you are good to go. I've had this idea before as well. It can be made fordable.
I have got my truck tuned to run a max boost of 10-11 psi under any conditions. I tow a lot of really heavy stuff and have no pyrometer as of yet and I don't want to melt my engine down. Most often the relaxed boost pressure cruising is 1-3psi.
It is a good idea to change them, especially seeing that you never have AND that you run WMO. All I run is diesel and I still change mine regularly. There is a good chance you will see an increase in power that you wouldn't even know you were missing once you change the filters.
Pull the top of the carb cover and lay a straight edge across it. Sometimes old carbs warp and allow flow between passages and cavities in the carb where it shouldn't despite new gaskets.
Power valve is also known as accelerator pump.
Pull the jackshaft and run the transmission through the gears with the engine running and see if you can recreate the noise. If not, reinstall the jackshaft, unbolt the front and rear driveshafts from the transfer case and try again. This will tell you if it is in the transmission or transfer case.
If you think you can get the ball rolling on getting armor released to the public, by all means give us an opportunity and we'll gladly be on board. That is something we could all get together to help along I think.
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