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Put a volt meter across both batteries with the truck off. It should be above 24.4 volts. Start the truck and it should be 28.8. If you have that, then you have a bad gauge. If you don't, it is time to start checking the alternator first and then the rest of the wiring. Look in the -20...

There are several threads on here about converting to all 12 volt. You will need to find a civi 12 volt starter. Everything else will be changing where a few wires go. Very easy to do. However, you won't be able to jump another mv off or be jumped off. I would suggest a single 27si...

You would probably be better off swapping tail gates instead of making the electric parts work in yours. I looked at a few civi Blazers over the weekend trying to get some slider windows. All 5 had electric rear glass. The guy didn't even know they made a hand crank glass. He wanted to look...

Colton has his b-day Friday and we have some stuff planned at the house. Sorry I won't make it Mark. Rory, who did you kick to break your leg?

More accurate would be that you are between repairs. I get waved at by law enforcement types all the time in my bumper number registered trucks. I have only been pulled over once in almost 4 years of driving all over the state with just the bumper numbers. I used to get stopped at least once a...

Where in Texas are you again? Lots of us multifuel guys will take that fuel. I am prepping for the tropical storm as well since it is supposed to be over my house or near here Wednesday.

Ball joints, wheel bearings, tire rod ends and drag link ends. Those are the parts in the front end that are meant to wear and are replacable. Look through the manuals, test those parts and replace what needs it.

The 37" radial tires had the rubber run flat. The 36" bias ply 8 bolt split had the bolt together run flat. The run flats have to stay with the rim they were meant for. If not using run flats, then not a problem.

3/8" hex normal "lefty loosy, righty tighty" stuff. A breaker bar instead of a ratchet with a medium sized hammer to help it start moving it probably what you need. Grease up the slider pins when you put it back together.

Just a side note. The ones Wart Hog has are still boxed to military specs. I came home with 3 of them when I picked up the M1009 a few months ago. 7 foot long box, 4 feet high and about 1 foot thick. Any glass you buy from him will not get broken during shipping. Might not fit in the brown...

The 3 lever switch does a lot of things. I went through about 9 or 10 used ones until I found a unit that worked on every function when I was building the M715. I have had a pretty good run lately on the other trucks. Here is the best wiring diagram I have ever seen about what pin does what...

Another messy check is this. Make the brakes lock up, lossen the brake line between the master and air pack. Pressurized fluid means it is the master. Just a drip and the problem is in the air pack. Realistically, you are better off pulling both the air pack and the master. Take them...

That means your high beam switch is probably the problem.

I agree, it is probably your switch.

Remove the intake to clean it out. Don't go spraying cleaner into the intake because if it burns, it will cause the engine to increase rpm and basically, run away on its own.

Put your hand on the relay and start the truck. You will hear and feel the click as the starter is activated. Since it can be heard, that is a great troubleshooting help if the starter ever fails to turn on. If you get the click and no starter, the problem isn't on the 12V side of the start...

I am trying to write this in the nicest way possible. The -20 manual has a huge trouble shooting section for electrical problems. It walks you through each of the problems mentioned in your post step by step. There is also a wiring diagram, fuse block map and basically everything you need to...

Check the connectors on the back of your black out light switches and then move onto the master head light switch if you have checked everything else. One question, is it just the head lights flashing or all the lights?

Yes, I adjust the bottom to spec on both sides, put the cover back on, put on the tire and spin the tire while adjusting the top with a box end wrench. When I hear noise, I move to the other adjuster and repeat. Then I put the axle shaft or hub back on along with the outter tire if needed once...

You can hear it click.