Search results

Is yours the hard bound version? I got one from the same place a few years ago and love it. Finding a way to copy it without destruction seems to be a noble goal.

It was nice to meet you Tom. Glad you made it home safe and happy.

I will probably see you there. Kwai and I are also going to Wart Hog's. M101, 600 gal fuel tank and a pile of other stuff. 800 mile round trip from my place. We leave at first light.

I made a puller out of plate steel that looks pretty much like a steering wheel puller. That got it off. I am still trying to spec out the exactly right seals and bearings to rebuild the pumps so I haven't gone through the head ache of putting one back on.

If the truck has been sitting awhile, the seal might start sealing again once all the parts get warmed up and all the crud/rust get worn off. For on the side of the road help, pour a cap full of brake fluid into the axle. It will cause the seals to swell some and probably stop the oil leak...

I agree with the just "drive it and see if any oil is even being used" advice. But, I have to ask. How can you even see the exhaust? I had my top off mine for a while and except for the black when shifting up, I really couldn't tell what color mine was and I noticed the back ground terrain...

The 5 ton transfer case is air actuated as far as telling the Sprag which direction the truck is going. More specifically, the air is only used for reverse. At least in the 5 tons I have been around you can only hear it thunk-Hiissss when you put it in reverse. The M35 air shift transfer...

Wire #25 goes from the horn button on the wheel through the steering column and through the box. It has a Packard connection to another length of wire #25. This wire goes to the drivers side frame and back to the crossmember that goes under the radiator. It then goes forward on the passneger...

Go to the front bumper, drivers side frame rail. Look underneath and you will see the steering box. A wire will be right infront of your eyes. It will be number 25. Unplug it. Please be carefull before you touch it and look for no insulation. 24V hurts and when you jump, you will hit...

Basically, just follow the white plastic fuel line from the firewall side of the secondary fuel filter set and see where it goes. If it goes to the firewall end of the IP then the FDC is connected. If it goes to the middle engine side of the IP then it is bypassed. You should also have a line...

My '52 Gasser has the sprag and it works great. I like it. Or, at least I did until I got the air shift multifuel. No more worries about creeping backward when starting on an incline, no more worries about coasting to a stop and no more pulling the front hubs to flat tow. To answer you...

He must have had another report to turn in at school: "You can see that I again brought up the same subject, I again stated what I have been told repeated is a wrong view, I again argued that I was correct no matter what the facts are and I again used false data to try and prove my point...

What are you going to do with the bed? Let me know if you need parts, I have some extra brake stuff.

Welcome to the madness. Did you drive the truck through Giddings Tuesday? I have been out of town the last few days. but, 3 people at work today have said they saw "You and your truck heading towards Brenham" Tuesday. I don't have the link to the power bleader thread. Basically, all you...

My parts truck also has the data plate. I won't be able to get to it for another week though. PM me a reminder if I don't post a picture up in a week please.

The front wiring harness is basically the same. The plug under the seat that connects to the rear harness has about 5 pins more than the M35. (I put a M816 rear harness on my Gasser and had to change that plug over is how I know.) The rear harness has the bigger plug and is about 5-8 feet...

Thanks for the pictures. Does running the Gasser with the engine side covers off really help cool it? Mine stays at 180 in 100 degree heat as long as I keep the speed below 50 is why I ask. Over 50 mph and it will hit 200 fast.

Pretty much the only way to get CARC of is to knock it off either with power tools or an abrasive blaster. Those strippers you mentioned are just more diluted versions of the aircraft stripper in most cases.

Maybe others have had better luck with it. I have tried aircraft stripper on my old M715 lead based paint. It just made a mess and didn't remove much paint. CARC stands for Chemical Agent Resistant Coating. It is made to not come off when stuff like aircraft stripper, brake fluid and such...

Do you have a lever under the gauge cluster that has a red light with it? This lever allows air to shift the transfer case into locking the front axle drive shaft in with the rears to be driven. A Sprag case "decides" when you need the front axle to help. It also has to know which direction...