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There are two holes under the batteries for drainage but blocked by the batteries themselves. I still need to look under the main engine rails
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Finally made time to wire screen the side vents.
1/4” screening with zip ties.
Also have moth balls placed in various interior spaces away from HV electric or moving parts.
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Much appreciated!
Which adapters should I be looking for that are compatible with the HMMWV/M998?
I gather it’s:
Clevis NSN: 5340‐01‐046‐ 4770
Which has 3/4 and 1” pins?
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Looking for assistance in identifying this tow-bar. From the Tow Bar Smart Book this looks like the M113 bar to me.
Tagged NSN2540016676880 does not seem to match the model. https://www.parttarget.com/2540-01-667-6880_2540016676880_4026AS651-1.html
Does not match nominal length. Perhaps...
Finished upgrading the M998 to A2 steering components.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m998-upgrade-to-a2-idler-pitman-arms.204190/#post-2378557
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Finished the upgrade. New tie rods are in the mail as well.
Part numbers:
Hummer H1 STEERING DRAG LINK PN 6023077 NSN 2530-01-420-3837 AM General
Pitman Arm Humvee ; 12460468 6004838 2530-01-420-5180 (A2 Version)
Hummer H1 STEERING DRAG LINK PN 6023077 NSN 2530-01-420-3837 AM General...
Looking for which plate goes on this location. If anyone has reasonable sources all ears. This is the side with the radiator filler.
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If tie rods are still good, boots are available. I’m in process with this now.
“Energy Suspension 9.13119G Round Style Tie-Rod End Boot”
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Well I was wrong about the pitman arm, it was well worn as well. All done with the tear down and getting ready to install the A2 idler, pitman and drag link.
A2 on left A0/1 on right
A2 idler is definitely improved
Old assembly ready for scrap. Seems a shame to toss the drag link...
Do the tie rods interchange or does the A2 also have longer tapered shanks on the tie rods?
I understand the A2 arms can use the A0 drag link with spacers under the nut…?
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I replaced the idler about two years ago with the original A0/A1 style. The pitman arm was and is still good. Now worn with approximately 2k road miles on.
I’m going to step up to the A2 style arms this time around. I’m debating weather to upgrade the drag link at the same time.
Q: are the tie...
Replaced 7.5k LF & RF axle. Autozone.
Yeah I’m aware of the quality concerns with off shore parts. The price and warranty was right.
Also took the opportunity to replace the hub input seal for good measure.
Component wise the build looks very similar to the 10k axle specification.
Removed all rear upper A arm shims.
It’s a big job but it did go much faster after getting the procedure practiced.
Off to the alignment shop Monday to see how camber turns out.
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Bracket is well diagramed in the parts TM. Four rivets to the C pillar and a through bolt to the body seam. Structural? -no
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Picked up 5 radio trays from GovPlanet. Took the best components of each and mounted on my M998.
I have the tall mount turbo leg/bar assembly for the rack but decided against the conversion at this time. The old style M998 feet seem to work just fine.
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Set front toe in per TM. 3/16” toe in and called it good enough. Centered steering wheel after many, many adjustments…
Removed all shims from LF control arms to get positive camber under control. LF is nearly 0 degrees camber now. Still have to do the same to RF which is running about 1...
Finished 60A generator brush replacement and VR adjustment
M998 60A alternator not charging
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m998-60a-alternator-not-charging.202938/[URL]
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