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ECV’s are also aging out of the fleet. I’d rather see them auctioned off than crushed though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bummer. Armored ECV HMMWV in the wrong hands. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, the seal is different between the two styles. I have a turbo style seal. PM if interested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm, sell this as a retrofit kit? [emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ditto ref universal joints. I just replaced all the front and rear shaft joints in my M998. All were loose/worn to some degree. One was bone dry and approaching failure immanently. Also a good opportunity to check and replace the front shaft carrier bearing if you have the early model front...

Wow, what heater retrofit is this? Is there any leg room for the passenger position? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Strongly recommend stock HMMWV battery hold down hardware. Inexpensive security for a short or free floating batteries during a rollover... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great old thread. I'm investigating retrofitting this insulation into an M998 and was also a tad befuddled about where the various pieces fit onto the vehicle. TM 9-2320-280-20-3 Section 10 has good illustrations and procedures for insulation installation/replacement.

IN Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Applied Noico 80ml to the windshield duct cover trim piece today. Basically followed this procedure: http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/interior/sp.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Covers are twist lock. Counter clockwise to remove for access to bulbs. They have a tendency to melt so removal may require creative work if so. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After driving the 998 recreationally for a few years I’m finally getting around to sound insulating it a tad to make it more humane on my family (even though we wear earpro). After removing the doghouse rubber padding a single sheet of Noico black 80 mil was applied to the degreased surface...

Yeah I’ve been going through multiple leaks during rains here. In this case I’ve got a leak around the outside diameter of the rubber grommet and also through the wires feeding through the middle of the grommet. I’m gonna try sealing both with polyurethane sealant later on. Sent from my iPhone...

Tried DAP Ultra Clear today and had no luck with it sticking to the body or grommet. I suspect it was too cold at 40ish to apply or may be expired Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Leaking well enough to wash my feet and floormats. I have not been able to locate a replacement sans the whole pump assembly. 3M body sealant did not work. Silicone it or what All ears. Yeah, it rains a lot in WA... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Curious what is installed in the lower hole of the rear panel. I’ve never seen anything in that position. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CDR valve and hoses are new. [emoji106] No visible blow-by at idle. I have not performed a manometer test for crank case pressure yet. Final prep on main cap/block surfaces used brake cleaner followed by acetone. TBH I’m suspecting rear pan seal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

M998 has been leaking from the front and rear seals. 6.2L engine. I’ve recently replaced the rear main seal per the TM procedure. Used Felpro/National 5163 seal. The seal was installed partially offset from main cap parting lines with a small dab of ultra on the ends per recommendation. Pan to...

Finished rebuilding front and rear propeller shafts on my 998. New U joints and carrier bearing. Rear universal joints are Spicer 5-213X Front universal joints on A0 early model shaft are 5-153X Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally diagnosed a body water leak in the support structure under the A pillar/windshield frame. 3M Auto-body Sealant to the rescue... So far no more leaks in the treated seams. [emoji3][emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk