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As for the wobble, check the tranny mount, tire balancing and front end parts (king-pins, tie-rod ends, etc).

Those aren't crazy shift points, but you can rotate the top of the vacuum valve on the passenger side of the IP toward the rear of the truck to lower the shift points. Higher shift point means more line pressure and firmer shifts which usually equals longer tranny life (not that you will drive...

:funny: Oh, and... :ditto:

M1009 and M1008 shafts are different. Have a new one made at a 4x4 shop.

Oops, you are right. The 5-ton dumps do have dual tanks, just like the tractors. The deuce dump only has a single tank, right?

Good eye Clinto, I missed the fuel selector...

How about the trailer brake controls? Since the bed doesn't seem to match the rest of the truck, it looks like it might have been an M52 tractor at one time.

:ditto: That's the most common variant I use and have heard over the years. Or, you could say "CUCV Blazer" (Cuck-vee Blaze-r) :-D

It sounds like you have experience hauling these types of loads. While I would not personally recommend it with an F250, it would depend on distance and route. 20-50 miles of backroads, I'd probably do it. Major highways, no way. You can't ignore the stupidity of other drivers, which is why I...

There you have it!

As Gimpy said, CARC dust is not good for you. Prepping the surface is critical and some sanding will most certainly be involved. Be sure to wear a QUALITY respirator while sanding/blasting. You can paint over CARC with CARC, but you'll need to prime any bare metal with the correct (epoxy?)...

I don't have the TM for the M215 handy, but you are right: It's a 2.5-ton frame/drivetrain. Max on-road load is 10,000lbs. This guy is roughly 40,000lbs over the weight of the truck! A 20-ton dump truck is a big truck!

Yeah, that's too high for a 5-ton dump, much less a M215. Try more like 24,000, give or take. If the data plate is on the dash, it will tell you.

Unfortunately, removing that bumper won't buy you the length you need (3+ feet), so it's probably not worth the effort. You'll need a bigger container to get her home with or without the bumper on. The truck is about 22' long without a winch. Even a deuce tractor is just over 20' without a winch.

Scrap's low right now, but if they scrapped them last year, they made a killing... If I only had some cash...:cry:

It's probably a little far for some of you guys, but I will also offer to host a get together at my place. I've got a fair amount of driveway and lots of (currently) frozen lawn to park on. I do have heat in my building and, although it's not insulated, it stays pretty tolerable. I also have a...

I haven't replaced one in a few years, so I don't recall the number, but the TX47 appears to be the right switch, from the picture I could find. This is the switch in the rear of the passenger side head with 2 spades sticking out of it. Is that the one you need?

Unless their system doesn't "think" your invoice requires an SF-97. Then, their site will direct you to fill out the forms and fax them anyway. Ask me how I know this... :roll:

Forgot the one for the GP controller on the driver's side top rear of the engine. It was/is GM part #10045847 From what I could find, the TX47 appears to be the cold advance switch, but I'm not going to swear to that...

Which one? The one for the cold advance or the one for the idiot light? The cold advance GM number was/is: 14071047 The idiot light GM number was/is: 25037177 I can't remeber where I got my last cold advance swith, but it was probably Parts Plus.