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Thanks, the uploaded photos seem to be lower resolution. Piston and bottom of the cylinder looks good. I think it just needs broken in.

That photo was after installing the fitting and prior to oil change. This is what it looks like until I buy some rubber hose and a plug.

Okay, so the photos didn’t stay in order.

I had some time today, so I added an angled drain fitting, changed oil and filters and took a peek inside the engine. The first photo shows the pipe I put on the allen wrench to break the drain plug free. I can still hear the snap from when it let loose. Second photo is the angled fitting I...

Thanks for everyone’s input. I will report back if anything pops up during testing, etc. and I plan to provide followup crankcase pressure readings at intervals to see if things are improving. One other question though, does anyone know the official name for the spring retention clips on the...

I don’t think it’s water because I measured the crankcase pressure with a manometer with the engine just after startup so it was nowhere near operating temperature to create steam, and the pressure was still high. To your point though, it needs an oil change regardless before I run it again, so...

I agree, I shouldn’t have stated “idle”, should have just stated at “no load”. I was running it at 60hz. I didn’t mention the hours on the gauge because my understanding is that is not a realistic indicator. Gauges get swapped, replaced, etc., but the gauge has 790hrs and I didn’t mention it...

There are some threads on SS. Mainly not running at low loads, varying load from 50-85% as much as possible.

I have had several hours to do some more research and calm down, and I am thinking that all signs point to this being a low hour reman unit that has been doing lots of sitting. Unless someone convinces me otherwise I plan to add some sea-foam in the engine and run it to operating temperature...

Hi Everyone, I purchased a new to me trailer mounted 802A and I have concerns about crankcase pressure. A little background on the unit. The genset is 1999 with a remanufactured engine and the trailer has a date of 10/12 painted on it so I am thinking it went through a reset in 2012 and hasn’t...

Great point. I think my 803 had that hose in the trailer box and I recall it being very large and never using it.

Actually 1 or 6…

Yes, 1 or 11😁. Thanks for confirming.

I have seen everything from 3/8”NPT, 1/2”NPT and 3/4”NPT listed in this thread. Is anyone positive of the thread size at the outside genset housing so we can close this properly?

So what is the degreasing procedure on the 802 & 803A? If I want to clean up a new to me unit, is it safe to hose down or do I need to somehow block the generator head, especially at the vents?

This is probably the link https://shopspeedhouse.com/blog/opti-lube-xpd-fuel-additive-review-and-comparison/

Thanks to everyone who replied. I definitely feel more comfortable using the kerosene up if needed. BTW, I got the 70 gal for free from a friend who had no use for it. It is red dyed and I am not 100% positive it’s kero but I think it is because it does light just slightly easier than red diesel...

I know what the manual states and it doesn’t state Kerosene but I read that JP8 was kerosene based. I thought someone might have more knowledge of aviation fuels similarity to Kerosene heating fuel. The purpose of my question was more related to a long-term grid down situation “alternative”...

I have been running heating oil for years. Now I have some kerosene (70g) and was curious about mixing it with HH oil but unsure the safe ratio. Is anyone familiar with the jet fuels listed as safe fuels for mep’s? I would think that Kerosene is close in viscosity and flash point of the jet...

I contacted battery tender, gave my tender model number and explained the application. They said the DC side has a reverse blocking diode so generators alternator voltage wont harm the tender. They also stated that if the generator also powers the tender, as long as AC power is not turned on...