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Sounds like my pre-mep days, although last outage my 803 did fail to distribute power until I flipped the AC interrupt toggle several times. I was in panic mode and posted on SS and I was prompted to try the toggle a second time and it worked. I would have given up since I flipped the toggle...

Much appreciated. I can stop worrying and thats an understatement. I doubt I will ever encounter 5" rain per hour, with .5" ice buildup, at 120f in the middle of a sandstorm.:D

No expert on the specs but I figured it would simply be based on humidty, altitude and temperature. Hard to calculate and test "blizzard". Hopefully someone will come along with first hand experience and/or more facts on military testing

Don't want to hijack the thread but makes me curious how the 80x series compare to the 00x series in regards to operation in foul weather. With the 80x series being water-cooled do they experience issues with ice or snow buildup at the radiator or do they run warm enough to melt it off?

Looking forward to photos. What do the fuel reserves look like? I have been running "rotating" some of my fuel storage in my tractor and need to replenish before fuel prices jump. I have about 140 gal which should get me around 14 days at 5k average in my 803A

They do more work than sharp dressed women and unlike sharp dressed women, they are always ready for action

Type "neutral bond at sub panel" in a search engine. "If you have the grounding and grounded (neutral) bonded at the second panel, you will have current on the grounding conductor. If for any reason the grounded (neutral) drops out, all the current will be on the grounding conductor."

I would have an electrician check your setup. It concerns me that you back feed a sub panel, where on my setup I back feed an interlock protected breaker in my main which feeds my sub. It is my understanding that in a sub panel you do not bond neutral to ground but maybe you have and power went...

Ok, I thought you could wire it closed. I didn't realize it will disable starting. Doesn't sound like battle short is a SHTF switch by any stretch.

Will the battle switch overide the sensors?

The inverter requires 17.5A AC per leg for the charger. How much load are you drawing with other devices while charging? Have you attempted to disconnect other loads and only charge the battery bank to rule out pulling too much current?

Greg - I know where one is with 12 hrs without trailer and like new..would have to drive about 5 hrs.

Greg, I agree on the 803 being smooth running. I upgraded from a single cylinder Yanmar. Talk about shake! i dont have natural gas near me, and I dont think I could heat with propane for the cost of pellets and the minimal power the pellet stove requires. I do have small propane backup heaters...

I have an 803A but thats mostly because I have dual heat pumps, and a 1hp well pump and load management is something the family won't do if I am away. My heat is a pellet stove with electric as backup. On the HW side of the equation, people should keep in mind that the new "smart" water heaters...

So, what type of heat do you have and what type of hot water heater?

Is there a way to eliminate that AC interuption switch in an emergency? Since it is a momentary switch I doubt one can just connect the two incoming wires together?

Ok, I restarted again and momentarily held contactor closed and no power to output terminals. I then messed with the light reset above the contactor switch and did not notice any change in the light when I went from contactor closed to open. No fault lights on panel throughout any of this. Then...

Does that contact switch reset on power down if the operator doesnt switch it?

Yes, several times. I wonder if its defective? Any simple check?

I did store it with switch in "normal" so the wife could start it while I was away. Other than that all I did was add the MOV per the instructions on this site.