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Sound deadening, insulation (2 layers), and reflective foil tape (in that order) have been added to the drive train tunnels. Not a lot to say here that hasn't been covered before except to say that the foil tape was super easy to put on and was very forgiving. Just tape it over whatever and cut...

Now that's the spirit! HAH! :beer:

Oh well, now that's a world of good information! I didn't know there were bodies without the gussets. I wish I wouldn't have drilled the unnecessary hole or opened and used 2 rivets from that bag. Oh well, I suppose no harm has really been done. :neutral:

So I didn't have a rivet insert for my Marson tool so I tried buying a longer handled rivet tool from Harbor Freight, however, I tried to use the steel rivets included in this reinforcement plate kit but I don't think the center is supposed to pull out like this: Sooooo, I think I'm not...

Haha, thank you very much Mr. Ahab ;) Wait, "top shelf"? As in "hard to reach for ye vertically challenged?" Lol j/k I think that just the regular diamond abrasive wheels in those drill bit sharpeners would work. I actually bought one for this venture but didn't even need it...

Then I installed the extra bolt on the passenger leg clamp. The instructions called to remove the top most bolt and its rear caged nut. How in the world am I suppose to reach the rear cage nut when it's inside the cab body panels?? :confused: Steps 'N' through 'P'. So I opted to just add it...

It was important to have all the bolts in the rear of the cab in place before drilling the holes in the ends, as I knew doing so would seat the plate back further against the wall then I would be capable of doing with clamps alone. Then I drilled the end holes in the plate and door gussets...

The cab reinforcement plate has been attached! The instructions call for a total of 74 holes to be drilled in it, I only had 73, and 2 of them aligned with existing, larger, holes in the pillars to I "only" have 71 bolts holding the plate in place. Yes, I did the nutserts and I'm honestly not...

The weather stripping around the side door windows? Erik's Military Surplus. I ordered this, minus the weather stripping around the windshields since I had recently replaced them with new (and unless you want to tip your whole windshield frame forward towards the hood, you don't need the cowl...

I just wanted to update this thread on some developments regarding the mounting brackets. The light bar really shook side to side and I only noticed a developed crack in the aluminum bracket once I had taken them off to be reinforced anyway. After the crack repair and reinforcement (no, I...

I just wanted to say "Thanks!" again Mr. Gimpy. Just move all the fittings over. 100% drop in replacement. Now to just bleed the air pack and brakes... Short: Long:

Thank you very much! Made my day. ;) The new side window weather stripping with the polyester isolators are all in. Honestly, I have no idea how effective the isolaters will be. As you may recall from earlier, one of the old weather stripping channels had a canvas isolator so I thought it'd be...

Honestly, for the prices of surplus/used tires, I'd avoid the big vendors. I'd look for tires here first (place a want ad) or your local classifieds.

That's much better math! So what you're saying is, the seal is fine until you push the trailer out from orbit?

I'm definitely agreeing with The King Machine here. Foam filled are great for vehicles/trailers parked for long, long, periods of display/storage, (but even then it's better to support said vehicle weight on jacks) but not meant to be driven on more than walking speed.

Thanks Mr. Ahab. I appreciate the compliments. It's no small time investment for me to take the time to take pictures and post, but I like to share the journey. I hope enough others enjoy reading it.

I bought the 2 Chicago screws at the local Ace Hardware store. Sold individually. They carried the aluminum ones too, but I bought the steel ones. 10-24, 1/2" length was a perfect fit.

Here's something interesting, I looked up the NSN of this seal on PartTarget.com and it lists the following: Accommodated Shaft Maximum Rated Speed: 3600 feet per minute That's a maximum speed of 3600/5280 = 0.6818 miles per minute, or about 0.6818 * 60 = 41 miles per hour (or ~65.84 kph)...

I used every part in the rebuilt kit and nothing was "left out" or "left over". I even purchased an additional o-ring that was not supplied (so that I could replace the o-ring between the pressure plates on the air chamber pushrod shaft). Part of the purchase was downloadable rebuild...

After fully bolted on, the (yet again) modified passenger light bar mount actually just touches the front, right gun ring leg. I thought when I test fitted it had at least 1/16" of clearance. The top of the light bar bracket is close too, but honestly, this is awesome how well it all fits...