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I'd also take a hard look at the thermostat, if it gets stuck closed it will overheat really quick. Another problem area is the lower rad hose, running down the X-way at high RPM's will cause a slight vacuum in the lower hose and unless it has a spring in it or reinforcing ribs it can get...

Nice looking truck! Hard to diagnose from here but I'm willing to bet you have multiple bad connections. I'd start with the heater blowing fuses, and I'd start by checking the connection on the heater controls itself. The switch is a known problem area and available at most auto parts stores...

I've pained a lot of grilles but never stripped one down. I think almost any chemical stripper will effect the plastic, you may end up with a puddle on the floor and nothing else! Next question, do you really want to spend hours scraping and sanding brittle 40-year-old plastic? Personally, I'd...

I've never seen one seized up, not saying it can't happen. What I have experienced is that the damn thing is so smooth and slippery it's real tough to push back up in there. Been awhile since I changed one but I ground the teeth off a hacksaw blade and would slip that into place holding the push...

Well it sure sucked that you had to go thru all that. I've had swollen GPs before but never broken any, after unscrewing them I spray them with penetrating oil (Castle Thrust is my fav.) and let sit while I do the others. After soaking awhile use vise-grips and pull straight out while twisting...

Nothing but trouble, both my dad and I never had anything good to say about it. Maybe it worked for the first year or so, but by the time we got the trucks= trouble. I take some of that back, upon thinking about it I seem to remember that system working for a while on dad's blue suburban, but...

Yup, not sure of the years used , but I still have a couple of those and the harness. Damn, I gotta clean up and toss all the junk!

That's great, I thought for sure I'd have to trim a bit on that inner fender, still might but now I know it can be down! Thanks for the pic's and THANK YOU for the part numbers!

Can you post up a pic or two of the front of the exhaust? I'm about to depart on that journey and seeing one already done would help tremendously!

I found a Ft. Drum map in one of mine and an original brass lock with key for the steering wheel chain, another one I picked up in Ga. had a large steel ball (about 2") from some ball bearing. other than that nothing but dirt.

For a more 'professional' job instead of using regular cardboard try a piece of plastic 'cardboard', it's weather resistant! In extreme weather I've covered the whole grill and never overheated.

Simple and easy? Have you checked the pink wire on the IP for power? With the ignition on you should hear a click when you unplug and plug in back in, if not you have a bad solenoid or no power. That's the first step.

Thanks guys, I'll give them a try, I already have to lift the engine for one side so why not do both.

I'd double check that bypass hose first, and then it might just be a coincidence that the water pump seal went. Did you by chance overtighten a belt and put unusual stress on an old and unflexible water pump seal?

Never used any of them, don't they transfer more engine vibration than rubber?

RIP Gage. You will be missed.

This may or may not apply, I had a civilian truck with a 6.2 (so did my dad) and both trucks had problems with belts. Gates lasted the longest at about 2 years maybe a bit less. After some research with a friendly NAPA clerk we discovered that there was a "preferred " belt, and all the others...

depends on what you have, I have disc brakes in the rear and the kit is available or you can fab up your own easy peasy, but that's for full floating rear ends.

A couple of pics would help.

Serp belt?? It should have V belts. Oh well, make sure you check the diff's gear oil, often overlooked. Wouldn't hurt to check the glow plugs and keep an eye on the IP, the throttle shaft seals seem to have a tendency to dry out when in storage and then start leaking. YMMV