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By the time you are done, the ticket price will seem small no matter which you choose. Yes, it's a great deal on the tires if cracking has not started. You will gain top end but loose the low end.....then you can play with fuel and rpm, etc.
So tell us what the status is.....did you pay for and get a truck? Your not the first to have a hard time paying the bill. They bite hard enough to make you NOT do that again.
How about this piece in the tongue? I like the strength it adds.
Interesting thought about behind......maybe a camera or 2 would give visibility...would want to see behind anyway while on road.
Sure juanprado. I'll be careful not to damage them with the smoke wrench.
All four jacks come...
Would seem a long cable or chain, possibly attaching to the sides while loading to keep it in place, would hook to a tractor or tree. About 30' for the deuce and 20' for the 105. You wanted a reason to have a long snatch cable anyway.
Tim, I understand completely. It's end mounts must be strong.
Here are a couple photos of under the 1061. Can you see the tunnel? Once the air tank is relocated and it's mounts re-purposed or removed, there is about 32" for a return chain or belt.
I have a low speed hydraulic motor to...
Making a bit of progress on the extended tongue. I settled for a permanent 6' addition. Almost everything is 3/8" thick. It leaves the entire inner tunnel unobstructed. Wow, These are heavy trailers.
My local car scrapper sells me these tires and wheels for only $25. You should find similar deal. Always buy in pairs or double check tires are same condition and size. If they want more than $50.....move on.
You can cut the ring off and weld....its cast steel. Mine has a stop bolt to prevent actuation at the end of the ram. I have not finished making my brake lines and wanted a way to lock it out.
There is my ring being put to use on a 1061 tongue extension
The reason for going stop to stop is they can wear a lot in the middle and getting it tight in the middle can bind on the less worn area. Sound like the adjustment worked.
Beadlocks that say they are 11 x20 are the right ones for the A3 11" wide wheel....they measure 10" wide.
I have quite a few new beadlocks for the A3 (not run-flats).
Combat 5 ton rims are 10" and the beadlock is 9" wide. They do not interchange
It is the water vapor in the air that condenses, causing the electric path across the surface. Sure, clean the corrosion out, but put the RTV in that blocks the path or it will just keep happening.
I have taken several of the NATO plugs apart and they bring the positive way too close to the negative inside of it. I've noticed the tell-tale green powder of "leaking" voltage. It makes me want a main switch. All it takes is a bit of moisture to find a path. If they were not a new...
Yep, that would work.
I think I better get more accurate weight requirement. A bolster trailer is a ten ton on road (I think) if it has same suspension as the 1061.
Worst case would be the bark/wood mix, wet. To estimate my volume I'll go 7'wide x 20' long x 6' high = 820 cubic feet...
Has anyone made a trailer from the long cargo 5 ton bed?
I need to haul ground up wood to my place from 30 miles away and lay it down in a 4-6" bed about 4' wide right out of the trailer. Need lots of volume and a way to self unload. The long cargo seems a good start point for the basic bed...
I did it with help and a jack. Had it apart and back together at least 5 times. Mine was a new TC in my 817 that they had never properly set the play on the bearings. I could lift the output shaft almost an 1/8 inch. I though it was trashed.
Nothing hurt, bearings, gears....it was new. I...
I could see going to them dual on a 4x4 that uses 395s on the front. I prefer no adaptor and would look for more offset to get space. Maybe an adaptor to go to the 10 lug 5 ton wheel ?
It's too much for a 6x6 in my opinion, even if you worked out the space. The 12.00 dual and 395 front is a...