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If you have the funds for a cage- do it. At the end of the day, its a safety feature, just like seatbelts. If your wheeling takes you to the point that you roll your truck, that cage will pay for itself real quick.
It's all subjective though. You might never roll your truck but wouldn't you...
I had my jeep gone through once. They didn't take anything though. Must have been looking for money.
It takes a certain kind if a-hole to do that to people. Nothing worse than a thief. I think BEEFCO has a loss prevention department, maybe they could offer up some words of wisdom?
I'm with gimp on this one. I needed one of the hardlines a few years ago, wasn't the easiest find but they are out there. If I recall correctly, one if not both are discontinued from GM. They can be found though. Rubber lines to an external oil cooler is a good option too.
How did the hardline...
The shop I use won’t blast anything that has CARC paint applied to it. I guess his filtration system can’t catch all the nasty elements in CARC and he doesn’t want it in his blasting media. The guy is pretty sharp. There is another local guy though, he doesn’t care what he blasts as long as you...
My powder coat guy is sort of a perfectionist. He worked as speciality coatings engineer for a big automation corporation. When it comes to putting coatings on metal- he knows his stuff. He did a core support for me and it was absolutely beautiful. I’m gonna have him do the rims.
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Around me it’s about $100 per wheel. That is blast and powder. The guy I know bakes a primer on, then the color then a clear powder.
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I guess what I’m asking is what are my other options. I can blast and powder what I have but my powder coat source is pretty booked up right now.
I can’t find anything in the aftermarket that fits the bill. Know of any wheels with the correct center bore?
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Have fun with that one!
Anybody else have an opinion on the wheel situation? I’m still open to ideas and suggestions.
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Not a wrong answer at all! No sweat! I’m just weighing out my options.
Cucvrus- you never cease to surprise me with how much you know about these vehicles.
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I figured you would be the one to respond! They aren’t to bad. It’s just gonna cost me more to blast and powder than to buy new ones!
Ever use the hub-centric rings to adapt to other wheels?
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No problem. There might have been a few other small differences but I’m pretty sure that’s it. Maybe someone else will chime in.
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I really hate to start a new thread about this but I am getting conflicting information on the subject. I'm getting some new rubber for the blazer and my wheels are kinda rough, so I figured I would get some new steel wheels. I found a set of wheels that match up: the backspacing, the bolt...
I don't think so- at least nothing serious. I do know that the passenger side has a few rivnuts for mounting a specific piece of equipment to the floor.
I’m probably going to order the Offroad Designe ride ends and tie rod this week. I’ll be sure to post a review and lots of pictures.
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I did a little more searching after I posted the thread. I this might be the route I’m taking. ORD makes a great product. I think they even make a tie rod kit that utilizes stock-style tire rod ends and not heim joints.
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No the left rod joint is part of that long assembly. If the left joint goes bad, the whole part up the the adjustment sleeve must be replaced.
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I considered that but my only doubt in that scenario would be the size of the tapers matching on a 10-bolt knuckle vs. a Dana 60 knuckle.
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I'm replacing a bunch of the front end components on my Blazer rust wagon before I get a new set of rubber. Darn near every tie rod has excessive play in the joint and I want to alignment.
My problem is that I cant find the tie rod at my local parts stores. I referenced the TM and it comes...
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