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On behalf of my grandsons 1123.

My opinion , based on my experience, you need to tear down the entire system, tank out, replace the pickup sock if necessary, pressure wash the inside of the tank, new fuel lines and return lines, make sure the mechanical pump is pushing fuel, "remove" the stock fuel filter housing and clean...

4 wheels on the ground.

Place your jack "under" the lower a arm, loosen the bolts holding the a arm mounting bracket. Once they are "loosened" raise the lower a arm, this will unload the upper a arm and if you have the newer style shims they will slide out the top. If you have the holes only the bracket has to come...

Had to replace both vinyl covered brake cables on the back of the '95 , just saying................. the c clips up on the body end are fun also!

I might add.......... you need an air or battery impact wrench(beg, rent, buy). Loosen the nut and then spin the daylights out of the bolt first one way and then the other a couple of times. This will loosen/pulverise the corrosion and make the "drifting" the bolt out MUCH easier. I see you are...

THERE YOU GO...... It will not get any better than this!

Don't forget the pics when you get it in. And there are several things on these when they break, well, you will be just fine with one kidney.

After thinking for a minute (something I don't regularly do) I believe the model truck you have has the vent system plumbed differently from the earlier trucks. The pump vent may go to the tank ......maybe. Just the same if the diaphragm is compromised fuel coming out the vent fitting is a sure...

If you had air escaping from the mechanical pump on the side of the engine it's my guess that you have a ruptured diaphragm in the pump. I would disconnect the vent line as to not get fuel in the vent system as you trouble shoot he fuel system. Fuel escaping the vent fitting equals a pump...

Doesn't look legit to me............

Had to fabricate a bracket for the solenoids, and took an angle grinder to the lower edge of the mount where the cable comes through in case it bound up and drug across the edge. Hope this helps.

Might help, THANKS to the guys over on the G board Might

I think I would pull the round plug on the driver side of the transmission and stick a qtip in it (you have to have a really small head to get an eyeball up to it) and see if it comes out "RED", that would be transmission fluid. It could account for all of your electrical gremlins but...

4L80E, lots of them out there. Heavy duty trucks and vans and a few Motor homes. R & R your self that way the shop can't complain about it being in a HMMWV ....$$$$$ My 2 cents.

I have another chair in the corner beside mine, should I pencile your name on it??? (The coffee is BLACK RIFLE)

I'll see if I can get my tech guy to take and post a few, I'm sure he'll want another raise.

For future reference, the Mile Marker 12000 hydraulic winch works great on the rear mount, motor mounts to the right side and the "factory hoses" reach just fine. Tickled with mine!

Like I said "I'M SORRY" Welcome to a corner of the internet. And if you reuse the axle stub chamfer and polish out any scratches, they create stress risers...................or something like that, causes bad things to happen. And again "I'M SORRY" I'll go set in the corner now. (That's where...

I rest my case. And I am not going to discuss what the bearing on the front drive shaft is called either. BUT, I do want to apologise to VAPOR TRAIL for hijacking his post to air our silly BS to argue about a GEAR. My hat is off to anyone ambitious and talented enough to tear one of these down...