Search results

usually between 7-10 on the highway at 50mph or less.

Sure. HERE is a good thread about fuel problem troubleshooting also. I think a somewhat common problem also is the clip on the bottom of the hydraulic head breaks off (retaining clip below the spring). It keeps the pump from working I believe. The part is cheap to replace, however its usually a...

You can get them from 2 of my favorite places to shop: McMaster.com or eBay. They almost always come in yellow (plastic) so I just sandblasted it, brake cleaner, then painted with the Rapco 383 green spray cans (along with most other green add ons I made). They are called pendant switches...

Well, I can give you some pictures anyway. The Hydraulic head is the part I removed in these pictures to replace a couple orings. Its the round cylinder part sitting on top of the Injector pump, its the thing the injector lines all run into. There is a secondary pump on the bottom of the...

Well I finally got around to finishing the lightbar and solargizer setup. As mentioned earlier on in post 30 when the light bar was not yet wired, I ran into an unforseen problem with the hood hitting the searchlight and the hood support rod not fitting anymore. As shown in the pictures I...

I had the brake pedal to M/C pushrod problem mentioned by doghead. In my case, the pushrod came out of the "pocket" in the M/C piston and wouldnt let the piston fully return to its home position which prevented some internal valve from releasing pressure. It ended up being a easy fix, but took...

I've just been making my own magnetic plugs since some of the deuce plugs get to be a little odd sized and hard to find (Differentials, Transfer Case, Transmission, Engine). When I do an oil or fluid change I take the plug off and mill or drill a pocket the same diameter as the magnets I get...

Well I finally got around to finishing the lightbar and solargizer setup, again I'll update more of this on my build thread HERE but wanted to put some closure to this thread for any people from the "future" who stumble across it. As mentioned earlier on, an unforseen problem I ran into was...

Whoa! Thats funny and impressive. Dittos on the cool fab work!

You should replace those rear thimbles with front style lugnuts if you havent already. SSDeWitt- You can check out my "MRAP adapter add" HERE for some people with mrap wheels for sale (including some westcoast people). MRAP wheels will bolt onto your truck quite easily but like Patracy said...

Like what? ;)

I'd be interested in seeing pics of this stuff when you get time. I'm thinking an inverter might be in my future so any ideas would be appreciated. Was your alternator just an exact replacement or an upgrade of some kind?

Might want to look at the transfer pump thats attached to the Injector Pump a bit more if you had fuel pressure after the primary filter. Here is a recent thread on a different problem but its about the transfer pump or "mechanical boost pump" as its titled in this thread HERE

Hmmm. i might have to check this out... Think there is much room to maneuver if I come around 9:00am or should I just leave the trailer at home to prevent the headaches?

Interesting. So I assume you called and talked to Randy Ouverson about the problem right? Does this mean there are different size U-joints and cases out there? I thought they were all the same.

I used some high pressure "push on hose" from McMaster.com you can get it in lengths as short as 5' on up for about $1.50 a foot. McMaster is awesome! Here is a part number for what I used on my air-o-matic as well as other stuff with the push on hose http://www.mcmaster.com/#5283K12

I just did this today, it took 3-1/2 tubes filled from the bottom plug before grease started coming out the top plug. (I know this thread is old but hope this helps save someone else a second trip to the John Deere dealer to get 2 more tubes like I had to.)

Thanks Gringeltaube. My gearbox has no leaks, but it does apear to have more slop than I think it should (Slop being = turning the wheel before the pitman arm starts moving). I've been reading through the TMs trying to figure out what I can adjust without needing to remove the box from the...

I was wondering this too. Can they be rebuilt with them in the frame (and without having to remove it all from the truck)?

They have the same 10 hole lug pattern as MRAPs dont they? The plate just has to mount to the front of the wheel face rather than the back to give it as much backspace as possible correct? I'm told 15" diameter is about the largest plate that will work with the existing rim flanged locknuts...