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Sounds like everything under the hood is OK. Can it be that your ignition switch is going bad? Or the wiring between the ignition switch and the bulkhead. Time to crawl up under the dash and get some readings there?

Finished replacing the suspension rubbers. Truck is sitting pretty level again. While he was under the truck, I told Niek to take the bolt from a shock absorber out and try to push it in. It went in without any resistance and stayed there. Got on Rock Auto and ordered new shocks all around and a...

I was going to suggest measuring the busbar to calculate it after reading the title :LOL: I recently took the busbar apart. There's a copper strip/flat bar connecting the studs. It would be easy to make yourself a thicker one if needed.

I received the turbos today! :D No dowel pin. After taking out the snap ring I can rotate it anyway I like. Not sure what the PSI the wastegate actuator is set for, but it won't be very difficult to create my own using a spring. Or get one from Heath Diesel. For any Europeans on here, these...

Nice work! I'd keep the PSI a bit lower tough. Just received an e-mail, my HX35Ws should be delivered today. :D I'm still looking for a turbine outlet flange. Doesn't it require a pocket machined into it like in the picture below?

Start eliminating injectors by loosening them up 1 by 1 while running and see if the knock goes away? Even with the GVO, isn't 80 MPH pushing this engine? What RPMs would that get on your setup?

Looking at the wiring diagram it should go to the fuse box located above the pedals? Fuse 15? Fuse 17 is also part of that circuit?

You mentioned priming the fuel filter. I think it would've started by now. Charge your batteries and then try loosening up some of the injector lines on the injector side before trying to start. When fuel starts dripping out, tighten them. There might still be air in there?

The green wire you circled is for the cold advance. The big pink one is for the fuel shutoff solenoid. Test that one. Have a look at these, I'm sure they'll come in handy. Oh and at least your truck is grounded well :LOL:

Thanks for this. Ordered the bushings using the part numbers you posted. They fit perfectly. Front and rear. Maybe these should be added to the CUCV Wiki? For anyone also replacing the bolts and nuts; I used the following to replace all, front and rear: 2x Husky Spring SHB9165 (Front forward)...

Today we spent the day replacing the suspension bushings with Energy Suspension bushings. Thanks to @ezgn for posting the Energy Suspension part numbers. Right front bushing had to be burned out. Knocked the bolt out and put the welding torch onto the inner sleeve to do so. All other front...

Been Googling about turbos a lot. Lots of possibilities. Set my mind on the HX35W. After Googling the HX35W I came across Iveco/Cummins part number 3597180. I can get this locally. Great, I went to order 1. I ordered 2. One for the Optimizer going in the M1028 and 1 for my K1500. I hope I made...

Always thought the NP205 and NP208 were interchangeable. Thanks for clearing that up.

Thanks. Googling "fabtech 4l80e adapter" did not come up with that. Not sure if I like that though. If spending this much money on swapping in a 4L80E, why not spent the extra 100 or so bucks for the ORD adapter instead of adding a spacer.

An adapter like this one?

I'm looking into a 4L80E swap(s) as well. I have already bought one and so did my friend. Is your truck lifted? If I remember correctly, I've read where people who had about a 4" lift did not need to change the rear driveshaft length? Just the other day I was putting together kits at the HGM...

I have those military clamps and I really like them. At first I got Chinese knockoffs. They broke after tightening them a couple of times. I now got multiple sets from McMaster-Carr for my K1500, M1028 and my friend's M1008. They hold up much better. Parts numbers MIL-A-52425-1 and MIL-A-52425-2...

If you are in the USA, then yeah, it's worth the money. Shipping to Europe is expensive though. I'd bet shipping to OP's location (South Korea) is even more expensive. Plus, fabricating your own parts if you're able too, gives you a sense of accomplishment.

I should update this more often. And take more pictures during the build. We got the truck running. Serpentine belt conversion complete. It took a couple of turns for it a start and then it rumbled a bit for 10 to 15 seconds to get some air out. Runs smooth. Feels good to hear it running again...

I made my own intake plenums. Had the bases laser cut. Made one for my K1500 and my friend. I started on the one for my CUCV, but decided to wait until I figured out what turbo I want (HX35, HX40, Quadstar's Super54 or 60, PT Wiring Solution's HX40II...) and actually have it so I can make it fit...