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I have a bunch of led lights in my house too. The ones on dimmers definitely go nuts when a dryer or well pump turns on. I found getting the load up to 50% or more load constant takes a good bit of the surge out. There is an adjustment for the governor too that's in the tm if you want to play...
I bought used ones from a guy in Jonestown pa and a guy in Massachusetts. The guy in Massachusetts has cucv parts, so I get a bunch of stuff off of him. I have bought rear window cranks for the 1009 from lmc and have been good, those are hard to come by.
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Yes if you had the capacitor inline on the blower motor still that can backfeed and do weird stuff when they go bad. I have had several on the wiper motor go bad too.
Ok. Whenever a charging problem comes around in anything I approach it the same way. Keeping it simple starting with battery cables and connectors, then a solid battery charge and test. Alternator connectors etc. I'm not sure that the alternator can make the genset not produce power though so it...
I'd ask what the battery voltage is, if you've charged them up, with the engine off. 24 volts running sounds low or the alternator is trying to charge 2 dead batteries...I'd avoid that 100% unless necessary to make power. The alternator might be going full field with amps trying to charge them...
The one thing I know is the alternator has a fuse of its own fu1...back of the drop down panel to the left...should be a Grey twist cap. If that's blown the alternator won't charge. It's a glass tube style fuse.
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I'd bet you just need another regulator. The only wire I can think of in the alternator is the capacitor. I'd check for the power going into the regulator, though, to see if you blew a fusible link. I'll look at one when I get home.
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Ground up under the dash way up on he drivers side wall. Gotta get under there pretty good to see it. Probably a little corroded. The blower motor should have a ground from the case of the blower to the ground bar. The gen light could be a bad regulator...need to check volts at each battery.
2 easy ways 1 is put in an adjustable vacuum modulator 2 adjust the vacuum at the VRV...I like to start at 12 inch pounds...check to see what you have. If you knock down the vacuum that'll make it hold and kick down easier...2a.....once you get close sometimes playing with the governor weights...
I've done a bunch of kits on those. Some are just a front strut spring change all the way to a front cage drop and new knuckles. Do you have the original parts? Gonna need to know what they changed. The rear could be blocks on top of the springs too...round plastic spacers. Shocks will be longer...
I put a block heater in all mine. I used the brands I could find online and they'd last a month and a few didn't work at all. Tried several brands. I ended up finding nos gm ones on ebay that were decades old and those have worked the last 2 winters. I got good at changing them with a vacuum on...
Interesting as pic 104 in the tm does show what you have here. I'd try nut number 2 and see if the thread is the same. All the pumps I've done those nuts got mixed up and never had a problem with them being different thread.
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Ok. The tm you are looking at is a 1010 not a 1008...they could be different with that bracket and double nut since it has the ac compressor there. Go up a few pages it should have the 1008 Pic.
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