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Thanks, that's exactly how I thought it should work, but those pins will NOT budge. The one in the photo has been soaked in PB Blaster for a while now and it still won't budge.
Hey GD. Thanks for replying, don't know what I would do without you:) The wiring in the photo is at the plug on the dryer, the truck side of the harness is three black wires and a yellow. if the wiring was the same colors on both sides of the plug this would be easy. The whole plug basically...
On my way home today, when it was actually pretty warm, my AC wasn't working. Did some snooping around and found this when I got home: I noticed when the cab was up yesterday to install my trucklite turn signals that the cab was pinching and pulling on the wires to the dryer. I rerouted them so...
Well, it seems the locksmiths in my area are A) crooks, B) not prepared to work on Trimark locks, or C) completely disinterested………so, I’m joining the 1022 club.
The replacement handles I got from MWME aren’t TM202. I forget what the key code is, 1088 I think. Supposedly all of these coming out of Trimark have this key, and these are pretty popular handle in the RV world so my preference would be to rekey them. That said, if I can’t find a smith willing...
Looks correct, but the TM202 key code is the military code they all get keyed to, so in theory there are a boat load of those keys floating around. If you’re after security, I would have them rekeyed before installing them.
I got my new door handles, latches, and locks today. Mad a special trip down the hill to the locksmith to have the cylinders in the door handles rekeyed before installing them.
I about fell over when the flunky at the counter comes back after talking with the locksmith and tells me it would be...
Curious if anyone else with an A1R has addressed the incredibly cheesy front bumper? For a truck with almost 20,000 curb weight, the bumper is ridiculous, and let's not even talk about the fiberglass skid plat that is the protection for my AC condenser and radiator. I've been told the A0 bumper...
I was looking for this info for the rear the other day when I found this thread, which will make changing out the front easier today. Didn't find the rear info, so I had to figure it out, so I thought I would post the rear numbers here so it's all in the same place for the next person looking...
Just got off the phone with tech support at Mobil 1 and asked them if Delvac 1 was safe for Yellow metals. The answer was no. I then asked, what if the operating temp was below 250 degrees, then the answer was yes, it's safe for yellow metals. Case closed for me. When I redid the install of the...
This is exactly why I was asking the question. I would much prefer the benefits of a GL5 oil. If the yellow metal issue with GL5 oils is only at high temps, then this a complete no issue, even my rear hubs, that are a pretty good indication of the diff temp since they share the same oil are only...
Okay, so I've spent more time than I care to admit trying to find a GL4 gear oils. Most of the oils, like Valvoline say GL% and can also be used in GL4 applications. However, from what I have learned from talking with the tech folks at several major oil companies, is that a gear oil cannot be...
The gauge on the tank shows the fluid level to be 7/8, but there isn't oil above the strainer that unfortunately can't be removed. Dipping a zip tie through a hole in the strainer confirms the level to be just below the strainer, so I don't think fluid level is the issue.
I'm going from memory...
Amazingly, not much comes up when you search for "gear oil" relative to what is required for the Meritor axles. My understanding is that GL4 gear oil is specified and I'm curious if that is because of GL4 being safe for yellow metals? Reading through a Meritor maintenance document, they...