Bringing back to life a 2009 HMMWV M1165A1 from GovPlanet - total newbie, please help...

[Maxjeep1]

That kit is $119 with shipping now, for the difference I can hook up some wire.

I will order another one for my m1165 I just got. It’s not that much and it looks like it belongs there. I’m sure your skills are way better than mine. I can’t believe it’s went up that much. Electrical wiring is my Kryptonite. I like it because it taps into the tail lights and it comes with instructions clamps and zip ties.

 

[mgFray]

I still need to do this on my 3-speed. But can anyone point me to where to buy the wire? I ordered it from Federal Military Parts and it never showed up. And they never replied to my emails. So until either I get a refund or it shows up, I'm not buying anything else from them.

 

[TOBASH]

I purchased a traditional General Motors backup switch that comes without wires but tabs for generic wire crimp type terminations. 12-15 bucks rather than $50 and up. It fits right into the shifter in the proper area. Screws right in. When I upgraded to a four-speed, that came with the switch included.

 

[Mogman]

I still need to do this on my 3-speed. But can anyone point me to where to buy the wire? I ordered it from Federal Military Parts and it never showed up. And they never replied to my emails. So until either I get a refund or it shows up, I'm not buying anything else from them.

I use quite a bit of SO cord, can get it just about anywhere that sells wire and in different number and gauge conductors, looks like it is at home in most installations.

 

[mgFray]

My attempt was to get matching wire to the HMMWV. Since that stuff certainly feels 'different' to my fingers then the normal multi-strand automotive wire I've used in the past. (Not meaning to derail this, but finding the matching wire was the hardest part of the backup light I found, but if you don't care nothing wrong with 14 gauge automotive wire...)

 

[T9000]

Could someone please take a clear picture straight on (as perpendicular as possible) of the turn signal label and post it please?

Mine is missing and was thinking to print a new one on mylar or something similar, but don’t have a good picture of it:


Thank you very much!

 

[HUNvee]

 

[T9000]

View attachment 858299

Thank you very much!

 

[T9000]

But there is more, always something to do on these trucks like many others have said…boom…here comes the front differential…I have been noticing very small splashes of oil around the front wheels and in front of the engine under the truck, and finally found the source…the front differential is lightly leaking (it never drips on the floor) around the input drive line (yoke?):


There seems to be one or more brackets around the input area, which limits access to work on it while installed.

Could the input seal be replaced without dropping the front differential? (by just removing some adjacent parts?)
Are there other steps required after replacing the seal, like resetting the yoke (I read a lot of posts and that was something that came up) or something else?

 

[TNDRIVER]

But there is more, always something to do on these trucks like many others have said…boom…here comes the front differential…I have been noticing very small splashes of oil around the front wheels and in front of the engine under the truck, and finally found the source…the front differential is lightly leaking (it never drips on the floor) around the input drive line (yoke?):

View attachment 858556
There seems to be one or more brackets around the input area, which limits access to work on it while installed.

Could the input seal be replaced without dropping the front differential? (by just removing some adjacent parts?)
Are there other steps required after replacing the seal, like resetting the yoke (I read a lot of posts and that was something that came up) or something else?

Perfect job for a SPEEDY -SLEEVE and a new seal of course. Or just a new seal if the yoke is in good shape. You own an impact wrench, right? There is probably north of 150 ft. lbs on the pinion nut.

 

[T9000]

Perfect job for a SPEEDY -SLEEVE and a new seal of course. Or just a new seal if the yoke is in good shape. You own an impact wrench, right? There is probably north of 150 ft. lbs on the pinion nut.

Oh yes, I do have an impact wrench (got a lot of tools to work on the truck, I even have a mill to machine parts if needed, even as I am an electrical engineer, not mechanical), I built the 4 wheels with new tires myself and it would have taken forever to do each wheel 24 bolts twice, like the manual says, 85 ft-lb the first time and once more at 110 ft-lb. I got it down to maybe about 10 minutes to change a tire, but that's another story

I saw the SKF Speedi-Sleeves, it looks like a great solution, we'll see if it's needed, I think the yoke is in OK shape.

Ok so I presume the answer is yes, that the seal can be replaced in-place, without having to drop the whole front differential?
Therefore I just need to remove those brackets and the drive line? And no special adjustments to make afterwards? Sorry for so many questions, it's first time I am working on a differential.

Thank you!

 

[TNDRIVER]

Oh yes, I do have an impact wrench (got a lot of tools to work on the truck, I even have a mill to machine parts if needed, even as I am an electrical engineer, not mechanical), I built the 4 wheels with new tires myself and it would have taken forever to do each wheel 24 bolts twice, like the manual says, 85 ft-lb the first time and once more at 110 ft-lb. I got it down to maybe about 10 minutes to change a tire, but that's another story

I saw the SKF Speedi-Sleeves, it looks like a great solution, we'll see if it's needed, I think the yoke is in OK shape.

Ok so I presume the answer is yes, that the seal can be replaced in-place, without having to drop the whole front differential?
Therefore I just need to remove those brackets and the drive line? And no special adjustments to make afterwards? Sorry for so many questions, it's first time I am working on a differential.

Thank you!

I eyeballed my 1123 and it looks like the drive shaft will have to be moved aside, looks like the carrier bearing will have to removed also, big nut off, pull yoke out, seal out, clean, replace seal...... their is a TM on this that spells it all out..... too busy to read today, but looks straight forward. My torque cheat sheet did not list a value for the input pinon but the out puts were like 166 and up...... needs research here.

 

[T9000]

I eyeballed my 1123 and it looks like the drive shaft will have to be moved aside, looks like the carrier bearing will have to removed also, big nut off, pull yoke out, seal out, clean, replace seal...... their is a TM on this that spells it all out..... too busy to read today, but looks straight forward. My torque cheat sheet did not list a value for the input pinon but the out puts were like 166 and up...... needs research here.

Excellent, that gives me some very good direction, thank you!

 

[Bill Nutting]

Sometimes the seal will wear a groove in the yoke. When I replaced the seal on my M37 it needed the speedy sleeve. I got some good advise from Vintage P W. Put the yoke in the freezer for a day, warm up the speedy sleeve. The sleeve will slide right on. Once they become the same temperature they will very tight. Worked real good for me.

 

[T9000]

Sometimes the seal will wear a groove in the yoke. When I replaced the seal on my M37 it needed the speedy sleeve. I got some good advise from Vintage P W. Put the yoke in the freezer for a day, warm up the speedy sleeve. The sleeve will slide right on. Once they become the same temperature they will very tight. Worked real good for me.

It sounds like excellent advice…yoke contraction vs sleeve dilation…thank you!

EDIT: I saw there is a differential seal tool, but it’s made out of plastic and it breaks easily? Is there something specific you used to install the seal?

 

[Bill Nutting]

It sounds like excellent advice…yoke contraction vs sleeve dilation…thank you!

EDIT: I saw there is a differential seal tool, but it’s made out of plastic and it breaks easily? Is there something specific you used to install the seal?

Not that I remember. I did this a long time ago and I suffer CRS. The seal was on the transfer case but the process should work to install a sleeve on any yoke. Someone else will have answer your question about a tool to install the seal. If it presses in place, I probably made a tool out of a piece of pipe…

 

[T9000]

Yes, some pipe sounds like the way to go, thanks!

 

[Mullaney]

Yes, some pipe sounds like the way to go, thanks!

.
Agreed! PVC pipe the right size works well and with the "heat and freeze" technique, the speedi sleeve almost requires no effort to seat the the sleeve - if you work fast.

 

[Action]

It sounds like excellent advice…yoke contraction vs sleeve dilation…thank you!

EDIT: I saw there is a differential seal tool, but it’s made out of plastic and it breaks easily? Is there something specific you used to install the seal?

yes. I use the plastic seal installers. Jobs can be much easier when you have the right tool.

 

[TNDRIVER]

Not that I remember. I did this a long time ago and I suffer CRS. The seal was on the transfer case but the process should work to install a sleeve on any yoke. Someone else will have answer your question about a tool to install the seal. If it presses in place, I probably made a tool out of a piece of pipe…

CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN..... carefully tap into place with a plastic mallet(hammer). If I remember there is a lip on the seal that ends up flush when its seated. A block of wood will work BUT it has to be started evenly first. These are usually not real tight........... for whats it worth.