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I will order another one for my m1165 I just got. It’s not that much and it looks like it belongs there. I’m sure your skills are way better than mine. I can’t believe it’s went up that much. Electrical wiring is my Kryptonite. I like it because it taps into the tail lights and it comes with instructions clamps and zip ties.
I use quite a bit of SO cord, can get it just about anywhere that sells wire and in different number and gauge conductors, looks like it is at home in most installations.
Thank you very much!
Perfect job for a SPEEDY -SLEEVE and a new seal of course. Or just a new seal if the yoke is in good shape. You own an impact wrench, right? There is probably north of 150 ft. lbs on the pinion nut.
Oh yes, I do have an impact wrench (got a lot of tools to work on the truck, I even have a mill to machine parts if needed, even as I am an electrical engineer, not mechanical), I built the 4 wheels with new tires myself and it would have taken forever to do each wheel 24 bolts twice, like the manual says, 85 ft-lb the first time and once more at 110 ft-lb. I got it down to maybe about 10 minutes to change a tire, but that's another story
I eyeballed my 1123 and it looks like the drive shaft will have to be moved aside, looks like the carrier bearing will have to removed also, big nut off, pull yoke out, seal out, clean, replace seal...... their is a TM on this that spells it all out..... too busy to read today, but looks straight forward. My torque cheat sheet did not list a value for the input pinon but the out puts were like 166 and up...... needs research here.Oh yes, I do have an impact wrench (got a lot of tools to work on the truck, I even have a mill to machine parts if needed, even as I am an electrical engineer, not mechanical), I built the 4 wheels with new tires myself and it would have taken forever to do each wheel 24 bolts twice, like the manual says, 85 ft-lb the first time and once more at 110 ft-lb. I got it down to maybe about 10 minutes to change a tire, but that's another story
I saw the SKF Speedi-Sleeves, it looks like a great solution, we'll see if it's needed, I think the yoke is in OK shape.
Ok so I presume the answer is yes, that the seal can be replaced in-place, without having to drop the whole front differential?
Therefore I just need to remove those brackets and the drive line? And no special adjustments to make afterwards? Sorry for so many questions, it's first time I am working on a differential.
Thank you!
Excellent, that gives me some very good direction, thank you!
It sounds like excellent advice…yoke contraction vs sleeve dilation…thank you!
Not that I remember. I did this a long time ago and I suffer CRS. The seal was on the transfer case but the process should work to install a sleeve on any yoke. Someone else will have answer your question about a tool to install the seal. If it presses in place, I probably made a tool out of a piece of pipe…
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yes. I use the plastic seal installers. Jobs can be much easier when you have the right tool.
CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN..... carefully tap into place with a plastic mallet(hammer). If I remember there is a lip on the seal that ends up flush when its seated. A block of wood will work BUT it has to be started evenly first. These are usually not real tight........... for whats it worth.
