Here We Go Again Low Voltage M1009

[jplace1011]

No. That doesn't read amps.

Which is funny because the free ones you get from HF read up to 200mA.

Check to see if any of your friends have one, or ask the people at AutoZone or wherever you go if you can borrow theirs.

Maaaaaan!! I can’t win. I’m sending that s*#t back!! I have an old cheap one I’ll see if it reads Amps.

I may just buy the next model Up of the Fluke.

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[Squibbly]

Maaaaaan!! I can’t win. I’m sending that s*#t back!! I have an old cheap one I’ll see if it reads Amps.

I may just buy the next model Up of the Fluke.

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Go read my edits in my previous post.

 

[jplace1011]

Go read my edits in my previous post.

I’ll buy that much cheaper one you recommended


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[Keith_J]

Most digital voltmeters have a 10 ampere limit due to leads. Not too useful for automotive use.

I have a 1 milliohm shunt resistor for measuring current, it is built from a length of 10 gauge solid wire. To use it, it is put into the circuit in series, setting the voltmeter across it in millivolt scale. The voltage in millivolts is the amperage. It is good up to 100 amperes for a short time.

V = I X R is all you need to know.Here is a good video:

 

[jplace1011]

Most digital voltmeters have a 10 ampere limit due to leads. Not too useful for automotive use.

I have a 1 milliohm shunt resistor for measuring current, it is built from a length of 10 gauge solid wire. To use it, it is put into the circuit in series, setting the voltmeter across it in millivolt scale. The voltage in millivolts is the amperage. It is good up to 100 amperes for a short time.

V = I X R is all you need to know.Here is a good video:

Hmm, so what’s the best Multimeter to purchase that does whatever I’ll need for my vehicles? I’d prefer not to get something too high in price and an overkill device.


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[Keith_J]

What do you want to spend? Klein has a great clamp type DMM with voltage leads, it works great for rough current measurements with AC and DC, about $150. I've been using Klein for 10+ years.

 

[Squibbly]

Hmm, so what’s the best Multimeter to purchase that does whatever I’ll need for my vehicles? I’d prefer not to get something too high in price and an overkill device.


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I think he is telling you to keep your multimeter and make a resistor out of a foot of 10 AWG copper wire. The cost is however much 1 foot of 10 AWG copper wire is, which is 47 cents at Home Depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...Bare-Copper-Grounding-Wire-10626090/204725219 (you may want to bribe the guy with an extra .02 cents for 1/2 inch more). Just ask if he's interested in your 2 cents. It's code for a bribe.

Then you can just take a measurement in volts off each end of the wire that is added to the circuit in to get the amperage using the formula volts = current * resistance. With a foot long piece of 10AWG wire as a resistor the amps will ultimately equal the voltage (in millivolts), and you don’t need anything but that copper wire which if it were me I’d run through a piece of pvc and have the ends exposed through some end caps and my distance of one foot marked for the contact points.

It’s a bit of math but you don’t have to worry about burning up a multimeter. I like it.

I still think your parasitic draw wont be more than 10 amps but it’s safer to use the shunt.


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[jplace1011]

I think he is telling you to keep your multimeter and make a resistor out of a foot of 10 AWG copper wire. The cost is however much 1 foot of 10 AWG copper wire is, which is 47 cents at Home Depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...Bare-Copper-Grounding-Wire-10626090/204725219 (you may want to bribe the guy with an extra .02 cents for 1/2 inch more). Just ask if he's interested in your 2 cents. It's code for a bribe.

Then you can just take a measurement in volts off each end of the wire that is added to the circuit in to get the amperage using the formula volts = current * resistance. With a foot long piece of 10AWG wire as a resistor the amps will ultimately equal the voltage (in millivolts), and you don’t need anything but that copper wire which if it were me I’d run through a piece of pvc and have the ends exposed through some end caps and my distance of one foot marked for the contact points.

It’s a bit of math but you don’t have to worry about burning up a multimeter. I like it.

I still think your parasitic draw wont be more than 10 amps but it’s safer to use the shunt.


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Ohh no! Please no Math!

I’d rather just buy another multimeter and let it do all of the work for me!

I ended up ordering the Fluke 106. I’ll report back in a couple of days, once it arrives.


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[Curtisje]

I will Read this for sure. Thank you!


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The junction is the block where the negative cables all attach on the firewall.
It's called the accessory wiring terminal board on Fig.36, page 35-2 of TM 9-2320-289-20P.

I would post a pic if I could but I am unable to right now.

 

[Mullaney]

The junction is the block where the negative cables all attach on the firewall.
It's called the accessory wiring terminal board on Fig.36, page 35-2 of TM 9-2320-289-20P.

I would post a pic if I could but I am unable to right now.

.
I got you covered @Curtisje . Junction Block picture is below.

 

[jplace1011]

The junction is the block where the negative cables all attach on the firewall.
It's called the accessory wiring terminal board on Fig.36, page 35-2 of TM 9-2320-289-20P.

I would post a pic if I could but I am unable to right now.

@Curtisje Ahhh! I know what you mean. I call those the Positive and Negative Buss Bars.

So run a Cable from the Neg (lower) Buss Bar down to the Frame. This will create an Extra Ground. I do have some Larger Eye Ends (for each end of the Cable) and larger Gauged Cables/Wires: 10, 8, & 6. I could easily put something together.

Does it matter which size Cable I use?

*On a Side Note, ever since I repaired that Ground Wire (that runs from the Neg Buss Bar to the Engine) the vehicle has been starting much better. Maybe that was the culprit? I can still install the Extra Ground. I’ve read you can never have too many grounds.


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[Keith_J]

@Curtisje Ahhh! I know what you mean. I call those the Positive and Negative Buss Bars.

So run a Cable from the Neg (lower) Buss Bar down to the Frame. This will create an Extra Ground. I do have some Larger Eye Ends (for each end of the Cable) and larger Gauged Cables/Wires: 10, 8, & 6. I could easily put something together.

Does it matter which size Cable I use?

*On a Side Note, ever since I repaired that Ground Wire (that runs from the Neg Buss Bar to the Engine) the vehicle has been starting much better. Maybe that was the culprit? I can still install the Extra Ground. I’ve read you can never have too many grounds.


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Sounds like corrosion or dirt between the cable end and steel body or engine.

 

[Mullaney]

Sounds like corrosion or dirt between the cable end and steel body or engine.

.
Give the connections a good cleaning with a wire brush, then a little Anti-Oxidation paste and then put the connections back together. Pretty much the same thing that @Keith_J said - with me just being a little more specific on cleaning up "the creeping crud...

 

[jplace1011]

.
Give the connections a good cleaning with a wire brush, then a little Anti-Oxidation paste and then put the connections back together. Pretty much the same thing that @Keith_J said - with me just being a little more specific on cleaning up "the creeping crud...

The Connections are looking clean! I double checked it all when I repaired that frayed wire.

As far as putting a ground from the Buss Bar down to the Frame, is 6 gauge cable ok? That’s the largest size I have on hand.


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[DIVE DIVE]

Sounds like corrosion or dirt between the cable end and steel body or engine.

Sounds like corrosion or dirt between the cable end and steel body or engine.
Troubleshooting electrical problems without tracing an verifying sat grounds is like troubleshooting a fuel problem without changing the filter. I would recommend starting from square one. The harnesses are not that complex.

Troubleshooting electrical issues without the grounds being verified good is like troubleshooting a fuel system issue without checking the filter first. Bare metal on bare metal, then go from there! Good luck it’s a pain.

 

[DIVE DIVE]

@Curtisje

It sounds like I should consider installing a New 2 Gauge Ground Cable to go from The Firewall Junction to the Frame?

What is the Firewall Junction? Is that just the Firewall Area?

For example there’s already a Cable connected to the Engine Block on one side and just screwed into the Firewall behind the Air Filter.

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[Avngr86]

I feel like I’m just running around in circles here with my M1009!

When I picked up my vehicle, to fix an oil leak, the mechanic said he had to charge the two batteries overnight. All because it won’t start. I decided to test the batteries today and here’s what I got:

Off
Front 12.53
Rear 12.53

Off After a Short Drive & One Restart
Front 13
Rear 12.76


Running
Front 14.30
Rear 13.07

Running After a Short Drive & One Start
Front 14.40
Rear 12.80

The Rear Battery seems to be low. The Voltage Meter looks Low as well.

Note: The mechanic recharged the batteries and I had him Replace the Passengers Side Alternator. Alternator is from Hillbilly Wizard. The other alternator, Drivers side, was replaced just last year as well.

Today I also went around and made sure no cables or plugs were undone or loose on the Alternator and each battery. Both batteries were installed Dec. 2020. The Gen 1 & 2 Bulbs in the dash are turning on as well. I think the Alt belt is tight enough?

So what could be going on now?

Thank you for any help.


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Hey there, I don't know if you threw out the other alternator or not, but I would.open it up and make sure the regulator inside the alt is the correct 14v or the wrong 12v, I just went through this mess, had to buy a new alt before I noticed the 27si rebuild kit I purchased sent me the wrong voltage regulator.

 

[jplace1011]

Hey there, I don't know if you threw out the other alternator or not, but I would.open it up and make sure the regulator inside the alt is the correct 14v or the wrong 12v, I just went through this mess, had to buy a new alt before I noticed the 27si rebuild kit I purchased sent me the wrong voltage regulator.

I finally added a New Ground Chassis today, via 6 Gauge Cable. I used an existing hole and bolt used for grounding the headlights. I cleaned up the area as well. I hit it with a small steel brush on my Dremel. It was filthy!!

I still need to Test for any Parasites. That’s for another day!

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[jplace1011]

I finally added a New Ground Chassis today, via 6 Gauge Cable. I used an existing hole and bolt used for grounding the headlights. I cleaned up the area as well. I hit it with a small steel brush on my Dremel. It was filthy!!

I still need to Test for any Parasites. That’s for another day!

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@Squibbly
I am going to test for Electrical Parasites soon. On a side note here’s a thought:

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[Squibbly]

@Squibbly
I am going to test for Electrical Parasites soon. On a side note here’s a thought:

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It's an open circuit until you plug the lighter in, so no, a lighter wouldn't not generally draw power in that state.