I think I am ready to start doing more camping in this thing but the lack of OD is really making for long excursions.... so I read until I have a fairly good idea about what all is required and am %95 made up to go with the conversion kit from PATC for simplicity but just wanted to run it by you all to make sure I am not missing anything. Here is what the kit includes:
- level 2, 700 Raptor Junior transmission,
- #2 special low stall diesel torque converter(#2 special?)
- special low RPM diesel governor (special?)
- special adapter (seriously what is this one...?)
- special output shaft #50-6901(for my special splines on my np 2 0 8
- Beast shell upgrade
- dip stick
- throttle valve cable (surely the correct one? FK 25515599 36.1")
- bracket (must be aftermarket bracket w/ correct geometry?)
- stud
- special Humvee to 700R4 flexplate (special!)
- plastic dust cover
- no core charge
So I know I will also need a tranny cooler and lines (the deal includes either a small cooler or deep pan), I also have wired a temp gauge that is waiting to be hooked up, also the OD shift indicator is sourced easily enough. I am a little fuzzy as to whether I will need a different mount or not. I hope the would toss the proper speedo gear in there for me. Also I saw no mention of lockup in the kit?
I will be calling them with these questions, I tried to answer all of my own questions using the search here but there are so many ways to skin this cat that there are still some details I had a hard time becoming clear on. Any advice is welcome!
Cruzer; I am almost ready to begin the install of my P400/700R4. I have a few more things I want to get done, such as braze a couple of aluminum bungs on the P400 oil pan to accept the oil temperature thermocouple and pick-up for the pre-oiler pump. If you are subscribed to my rebuild thread you will see an update soon.
Regarding the 700R4 install, I pretty much have worked through everything necessary to get the project done. I am not familiar with PATC and their kit, but not sure you really need to buy somebody else's kit. I will herein provide a few comments on my experiences:
When I made the decision to replace my TH400 with a 700R4, the first order of business was to settle on a source for the transmission. I studied every transmission builder I could find, and came to the conclusion that there were/are many reputable shops offering quality units. I settled on Bowtie in California because of 2 reasons, first, the drag racing crowd swore by the Bowtie transmissions, and second, the owner of Bowtie, Chris Gardner, drives a 6.2 CUCV as his daily driver and has a 700R4 in it. Chris knew exactly what was needed for my application. I purchased a Level 2 rated at 450 HP and 450 FPT. The transmission came with the correct torque converter and brake-pedal unlock wiring. Chris also built the unit with the correct govenor and Advance Adapters rear output shaft to properly mate to my NP208. If I remember correctly, including freight costs from CA to KY the total cost was somewhere around $2500. But that was in 2016 so I suspect the pricing will be higher now. Chris will speak with you on the phone. His number is 909-528-8901. Nice fellow to do business with.
The 700R4 will fit in the same space as the TH400. Same length, but you will need the taller all-cast adapter. GM14038663. Almost always available on Ebay. It will work on the OEM crossmember.
I have never been a fan of a thin flywheel cover, so I watched Ebay and found a nice used cast aluminum 700R4 cover. After bead-blasting, it looked brand new. I had to modify the starter hole slightly to accomodate the larger diesel starter nose. Remember all those holes are metric, as are the bolts which hold the transmission to the block. Buy new metric flange bolts from McMaster Carr.
I removed the Bowtie transmission pan and replaced it with a Derale #14204 cooling pan
https://derale.com/product-footer/transmission-pans/cooling-pans/14204-detail . This pan has cooling tubes built into it which draw fresh air from underneath the truck when moving and funnels that ambient air througjh special tubes with spiral fins which are submerged inside the transmission. The design effectively removes heat from the transmission fluid. Whether it will be enough or not, I'll just have to wait and see. If not, I will then add an auxillary cooler, but not until I see. If I can keep the transmission fluid temperature down without an auxillary cooler, then I have eliminated a part which can fail.
The single most difficult part to source is the factory GM TV bracket for the 6.2. These things are as scarce as hen's teeth and getting more scarce by the day. I may have an extra one in my spare parts bin, I'll have to look. The TV cable is readily available, GM25515599, 36.1" overall length. Proper adjustment of this cable is paramount to correct operation and safety of the transmission. Kinda scary at first, but after I understood how it was supposed to be it was easy. There are numerous publications which attempt to explain the procedure, but in its simplest form, you mount the bracket and attach the cable to the injection pump throttle (there is a place for it), then wedge the IP throttle in the WOT position, then press the little half-moon button on the cable to relase the cable from the bracket, then pull the cable as far rearward as possible while releasing the half-moon button. You also should make sure your IP throttle is really moving to WOT position when you floor the accelerator pedal. If it is not, you will need to modify the pedal linkage inside the cab. The 700R4 gets its orders from one source - the position of the TV cable. If your accelerator pedal is not retracting the cable fully at WOT, the transmission will not operate correctly. This is very important.
Well, that about covers it. Hope this helps. Here are a few photos -
at least they are available. thankyou again.