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M925a2 Power Surge

74M35A2

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There is a shorter ISL oil filter available, LF9548, but it looks like there is clearance for the stock LF9009 ISL filter. This is only because I am removing the auto trans, and the associate auto trans cooler. This will free up a lot of room on the right side of the engine and frame rail.

10-4 also on the water inlet. I see the MRAP ISL engines offer a short straight fitting (not 90 degree). This will work because once the trans cooler is gone, I only need it to come out of the radiator, turn 90, and go straight into the engine.

Thanks for checking, keep thinking.
 
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74M35A2

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Studied the 8.3L in the truck more yesterday. I need to get lucky on 3 things for this to work, which "should" go OK from a visual:

1. Front mount carry-over from 8.3L to ISL, looks to be same 4 bolt pattern, 2 per side at an angle into front of engine.

2. Would like to use the flywheel housing that came with the ISL and puts the starter on the driver side, as this frees up passenger side block clearance to use the factory block mounted coolant filter on the ISL. Not a requirement, just a want, but side mount pad locations would need to be same pattern and location as the 8.3L. Or, as long as the bolt pattern on the back of the block is the same, I could simply re-use my 8.3L flywheel housing onto the ISL engine. Plenty of room on the driver side for a starter though if I can use the ISL flywheel housing it came with. Also need to be hopeful that an auto trans flywheel housing is also compatible with a manual trans configuration. Looks like it, but not 100% sure until we try it.

3. Our 8.3L oil pans have a special curved depression in them to allow clearance for front axle up travel in suspension. I would either need the 8.3L pan to bolt up to the ISL, or it looks like the rear sump ISL pan may fit and work, especially if I move the engine/trans back just slightly. Front prop shaft clearance to transmission gets closer of course, but that may or may not be in jeopardy already, TBD on install.

Easy to say I should have checked these first, but not that easy to recognize without having visual access to both engines. None are deal-breakers yet.

Looks like whoever gets my stock 8.3L gets the entire drivetrain, everything from the fan blade to the output yolk of the Allison, including the external trans cooler and spin on trans filter/lines/hoses, as it will all be getting extracted. Will even be including the 110A Delco alternator and high capacity enhanced Sanden A/C compressor, as the ISL uses a more modern accessory mounting.
 
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WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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You will need to use the fan and hub from the original engine, it should bolt right up unless the engine is early and uses 8mm capscrews to mount to the engine, if that's the case all you will need to do is make the holes in the fan hub larger to accommodate the larger capscrews. The fan on the MH engine is a pusher, it pushes the air across the cooling package rear to front....of the package, not the coach. You will need the sucker fan from your stock engine. No, you can't flip the fan around, the blade pitch will be wrong.
 

74M35A2

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Livonia, MI
Seems the ISL has 4 holes in the head front and center, I may be able to carry my stock Horton air-clutched fan over. Hope to. Will measure this pattern and check when home tonight.
 

74M35A2

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Fan clutch, front mount, and oil pan/pickup all should carry over OK. Doing math on flywheel housing now. The stock mil one for use with the Allison MT654CR is 29mm (1.1") deeper than standard (thanks Will!). So, I am considering to mill 29mm off of it to make it standard depth, then just drill and tap the ring of trans mounting holes in it that much deeper. There is enough material remaining to keep it strong (no different than a standard one at that point). I would support the rear of the manual trans, just in case. There are provisions on the trans to do so, even though it is seldom or less than anybody uses them anymore.
 

74M35A2

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Ordered about $200 in parts today to replace the ISL front and rear crank seals while the engine is out, plus a new oil pan gasket to change the pan to the mil one with axle clearance. Also adding spin on block mounted coolant filter. New exhaust manifold gaskets to reposition turbo, turbo intake air temp sensor was broken upon removal, etc... New block heater, new oil pan heater, etc...

Straight water inlet tube was $150, so I will just cut and weld up my own to turn the curved one into a shorter straight one.
 
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simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
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Meanwhile while you are spending money on that Winnebago. The old small cam is logging miles.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Livonia, MI
While the turbo was apart, I sent the compressor housing/cover out to be mirror polished. Though I typically don't agree with chrome on an MV, in this case I do want the engine to identify as not stock with the hood open, so going all gloss black engine with a chrome-like polished turbo compressor housing.
 
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