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I stand corrected. Did these get MOD stamped on the data plate or something?Not true. I have an M998-MOD that once housed the Avenger platform.
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I stand corrected. Did these get MOD stamped on the data plate or something?Not true. I have an M998-MOD that once housed the Avenger platform.
We built a quad 20mm Flak-Vierling to mount on a 1941 Ford 1,5t truck for reenacting. The Stinger launchers don't even look threatening, just rectangular boxes with 4 holes in the ends, cops and the public wouldn't even know what they are looking at. Use known components like the toothed ring for M1151 turret, the turret traverse motor with gear and the joystick. The rest is just sheetmetal boxes and a plexiglass weathershield. I think we used a chevy wheel bearing and hub as our Flak-Vierling bearing, with a Chevy flywheel and starter gear for traversing. We scaled up measurements from 1:6 and 1:35 scale models and used museum photos as references.I was joking with a buddy of mine, I said we need to build a truck cap with a mock Avenger missile launcher on it. PVC missiles that launch out like the old fake guns that had a flag that said "Bang" on them. Put "Bang", "Pow" and "Boom" on them. It was a fleeting though after I thought about how many police I would likely get to meet for driving it around my town LOL.
Thanks for the suggestion but I actually bought this to use as a truck. Hopefully replacing my 97 F350. When I was looking they all seemed to be soft tops and I really wasn't looking forward to a soft top in the winter plowing my driveway. I came across a hard top the guy called an Avenger. It looked like it needed some help. I kept looking and found 2 more. This was the nicest one of the 3 IMO so I went with it. Now the fun begins trying to make it a functional truck.We built a quad 20mm Flak-Vierling to mount on a 1941 Ford 1,5t truck for reenacting. The Stinger launchers don't even look threatening, just rectangular boxes with 4 holes in the ends, cops and the public wouldn't even know what they are looking at. Use known components like the toothed ring for M1151 turret, the turret traverse motor with gear and the joystick. The rest is just sheetmetal boxes and a plexiglass weathershield. I think we used a chevy wheel bearing and hub as our Flak-Vierling bearing, with a Chevy flywheel and starter gear for traversing. We scaled up measurements from 1:6 and 1:35 scale models and used museum photos as references.
Start looking for an Italeri 6387 Hummer Avenger 1/35 scale model kit to start with. Looks like there is an M3 50cal below the right missile pod.
Yes, I live in Augusta.Are you around the capital area ?? just a guess using Fastenal . I as well live in ME. about 40 mile from Augusta. just wondering. so can look for you around the town as for work, I am there a lot in the Augusta area.
I picked up a High Back conversion kit. It gives you a pair of the nicer high backs and a better mount for the drivers side that has more adjustment and travel. you have to drill out the rivets that hold the drivers seat contraptions and remove all that bull****.Also spent some time trying to figure out what to do with the stock seat.
I believe that is what I already have for a passenger seat. In looking at those seats they seem to be very expensive. I found 2 Subaru seats locally for about $100. I'm not really interested in the authenticity of the seats. If It was $100, I'd give it a try. For $500+ I'm going to pass.I picked up a High Back conversion kit. It gives you a pair of the nicer high backs and a better mount for the drivers side that has more adjustment and travel. you have to drill out the rivets that hold the drivers seat contraptions and remove all that bull****.
I came across a local company/guy that has some of these seats NOS, identical to the kit in your picture. The price was reasonable compared to the $1000 + shipping regularly found on the auction site. So I bought a set today and started the install. Total of 43 rivets drilled out and the new mounting brackets are almost installed. I'll complete the install tomorrow and get some pictures. I'll have to cut and modify the shelf behind the seat in order to get it to go back as far as possible.I picked up a High Back conversion kit. It gives you a pair of the nicer high backs and a better mount for the drivers side that has more adjustment and travel. you have to drill out the rivets that hold the drivers seat contraptions and remove all that bull****.
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