Ongoing Log Of My 1987 HMMWV

[gcbennet]

The deep ford dipsticks both have a rubber O-ring at the base. Since the proper tubes are already installed i would assume the seals should be in place as well. I'd pull them and check anyway, just in case. Never take anything for granted. The deep ford CDR valve is different with extra venting. The power steering pump also has a vented cap. Check out TM 9-2320-280-20-3 chapter 12. I have NOS CDR valve, vented power steering cap, and cabin selector valve if you're in need.

 

[Bravojmc]

Hi
It looks good but you have the wrong base for the driver seat and you need to upgrade your wheels from the 8 lug around the outside of rim to at least 12 lug
24 lug looks the best of course
View attachment 667314View attachment 667313View attachment 667315

Dude! His truck is amazing! There is always going to be someone that Nit-Pics something.... Again your truck is amazing.

 

[Lawdog734]

Dude! His truck is amazing! There is always going to be someone that Nit-Pics something.... Again your truck is amazing.

In all fairness to what Tomcat posted, I would say that what was mentioned was more of a safety issue than anything.

- While it wouldn't be the first time that I've seen a high-back seat rigged up to a springer frame, you can bet that it's attached in likely a half-ass manner. If something happens during a sudden maneuver or stop and the seat base detaches from the seat frame, that's not necessarily a good thing.

- Regarding the wheels. We all know how old those tires and wheels are. It would be a good idea to replace the tires anyway simply due to age and go for the added safety factor of the 12 bolt wheels with rubber runflat while he's at it versus the 8 bolt wheels and the magnesium runflats.

 

[TOBASH]

Hi
It looks good but you have the wrong base for the driver seat and you need to upgrade your wheels from the 8 lug around the outside of rim to at least 12 lug
24 lug looks the best of course
View attachment 667314View attachment 667313View attachment 667315

Understood. It will take months if not years to get this vehicle exactly where I want it. In the meantime, I see where I can use steel cables at all 4 corners to lock down the seat position so that it is safe in a crash. I agree with your concerned about the seat and I was planning on addressing this important issue.

I will be looking for new rims and rubber this month. I am certain that it will not be cheap.

The deep ford dipsticks both have a rubber O-ring at the base. Since the proper tubes are already installed i would assume the seals should be in place as well. I'd pull them and check anyway, just in case. Never take anything for granted. The deep ford CDR valve is different with extra venting. The power steering pump also has a vented cap. Check out TM 9-2320-280-20-3 chapter 12. I have NOS CDR valve, vented power steering cap, and cabin selector valve if you're in need.

thanks! Most likely I will be in touch but not for some time because there are so many other things I need to do. I would "like" the water fording kit however I "need" to repair things like the power steering first.

Dude! His truck is amazing! There is always going to be someone that Nit-Pics something.... Again your truck is amazing.

Thanks! I appreciate your standing up for me and my vehicle. I understood that tomcata3 was talking to the FNG about safety, and given I'm so new here, his input as well as yours is much appreciated.

In all fairness to what Tomcat posted, I would say that what was mentioned was more of a safety issue than anything.

- While it wouldn't be the first time that I've seen a high-back seat rigged up to a springer frame, you can bet that it's attached in likely a half-ass manner. If something happens during a sudden maneuver or stop and the seat base detaches from the seat frame, that's not necessarily a good thing.

- Regarding the wheels. We all know how old those tires and wheels are. It would be a good idea to replace the tires anyway simply due to age and go for the added safety factor of the 12 bolt wheels with rubber runflat while he's at it versus the 8 bolt wheels and the magnesium runflats.

Agreed. I think tomcata3 brought up some very good points. I also agree that old tires need to be changed although I do not see any signs of rot or cracking on my current set. Once I have the car on the road I will be asking you guys about preferred tires that will endure mostly city driving but will occasionally go off road and perhaps see snow in the winter and mud all year long.



Right now, after some paperwork in the office, I am planning on quickly re-aligning my passenger rear door which is set up too far from the "B" pillar and is hitting the back improperly, damaging the rear door portal. Eventually I will also have to replace all of the rubber door weather stripping at the edges because my doors are rattling. I guess I will also have to re-adjust the striker mechanisms.

Thanks again to all of you guys,

T

 

[ohiohmmwv]

New to me 1987 HMMWV Slantback

I'd be more concerned about what looks like a baby seat on passenger side on the pics above. Passenger front seat is only attached by a few rivets to fiberglass cover. You could rip it off with your bare hands with high back seat.
But I think the truck looks great.

 

[Action]

The rattling doesn't go away on the x-doors. It is the window shaking around. The soft doors can be silent.

 

[juanprado]

I will be looking for new rims and rubber this month. I am certain that it will not be cheap.

I have a set of 5 12 bolt rims and excellent mt tires but I am another world away. If you have access to reasonable freight, I can palletize or drop off at fastenal if you have one? PM if interested.

Welcome to the madness. You have a neat ride!

 

[tomcata3]

Tobash

 

[TOBASH]

I'd be more concerned about what looks like a baby seat on passenger side on the pics above. Passenger front seat is only attached by a few rivets to fiberglass cover. You could rip it off with your bare hands with high back seat.
But I think the truck looks great.

Yeah, I noticed that. LOL. I also noticed the large speakers right next to the baby seat. Baby's gonna need a hearing aide and tinnitus treatments from engine AND speakers.

I really appreciate the pictures though! Now I know what to look for as far as seat base and rim/bolt design.

[EDIT - tomcata3's posts were much appreciated and I don't think that cam across in my above post. What I perceived as a little good hearted teasing might have not been perceived that way. He then deleted several posts and pictures. I want to state for the record that my statements were just tongue in cheek, and that the content of his posts was very much appreciated and valued. His images that were posted pointed out that there is a safer seat base for the highback seats and that there are safer rims for the HMMWV than what are currently installed in my vehicle. I might otherwise not have realized.

My "mea culpa" to you Tomcata3]

The rattling doesn't go away on the x-doors. It is the window shaking around. The soft doors can be silent.

You have more experience than me BUT these doors rattle too. Old drying weather-stripping and sub-optimal striker and hinge placement. Fixed one door as far as hinges and striker. 3 more to go (when it gets warmer).

I will be looking for new rims and rubber this month. I am certain that it will not be cheap.

I have a set of 5 12 bolt rims and excellent mt tires but I am another world away. If you have access to reasonable freight, I can palletize or drop off at fastenal if you have one? PM if interested.

Welcome to the madness. You have a neat ride!

PM sent and telephone number sent. I await your reply. And yeah, I can see how this can become both addicting and maddening.

Thanks!

TOBASH
Try Southern metal in wilmington NC, they strip HMMWV's and sell the parts, you could buy tires/ wheels $100 each and maybe the seat base
they also have airlift bumpers

I will absolutely look them up. Thanks!

I have a line on the Airlift bumper and I already have the bracketry, but if the bumper falls through it is never bad to have options. I'm also sure I will need many more parts as the project proceeds. 30 year old toys tend to need lots of attention and TLC.

Thanks all,

T

 

[TOBASH]

New ball joints in
New Tie rods in
New pitman arm in
New idler arm in
Fuel cell gets dropped tomorrow to look for leaks in lines and to clean the tank and to make sure the sender is functional.
E-brake adjustments commence tomorrow
"New" 24 bolt radial tires get swapped onto the rig with Centramatics next week

Fluids changed (radiator, brake, tranny, x-fer case, both diffs.)

Front driver's axle being swapped next week, with interim repack CV Joint and new boot tomorrow using 1993-1998 Mercury Villager/Ford Escape boots

All gauge senders being inspected, then gauges being inspected... I have a set of all good gauges.

Just an update... No pictures yet. Gonna post when I'm back on the road with her.

T

 

[TOBASH]

Dropped the tank. Leaking from under metal plate

Dropped tank. Gasket under metal plate is not competent. Cutting a new one.

Posting from iPhone so cant send pics. I’m not a Tapatalk guy.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Add the cut-out to the tunnel and cover so next time you can work it from above.

No more pain to drop, BIG gain, CAMO

 

[TOBASH]

Add the cut-out to the tunnel and cover so next time you can work it from above.

No more pain to drop, BIG gain, CAMO

Shoot! I wish I had remembered!

You’re absolutely correct!!!

 

[TOBASH]

Finally roadworthy!

Drives straight. No wheel hop.

Glow plug light stopped working. Vehicle starts though so maybe light blew, but we will find out in the AM. [EDIT-light works great. Engine must have been warm yesterday. Works perfectly now].

Gotta paint the 24 bolt rims black. Tan ruins my chi.

Gonna drive the H'way now to see for myself how she handles. Mechanic states she does well.

I'll post later.

 

[TOBASH]

Drives well on highway. Straight and true.

Now I understand why people go aftermarket on wheels. At 55 MPH car drives straight but in turning to change lanes she has a bit of a yaw. Also gonna get her realigned. I can see how going with stiffer sidewalls and plus sized rims will improve the drive at higher speeds.

Vehicle does 60 without engine issue. Just learning her and shaking her out so I did not go faster BUT she feels like she wants to go.

Gonna have to align her as when I turn right there is a tire squeal but when I turn left she is silent.

Handles speed bumps and rough terrain without issue now with new tires and centramatics and new shocks.

Best,

T

 

[TOBASH]

Finally designing and ordering my 700r4 from bow tie overdrives. Does anyone have any suggestions about design and parts that should go into it? I’m not going 4l80e as I’m a 1987 a1 and I have no desire to fiddle with an electric system control box. RWH is correct that 4l80 is more robust BUT tons of trucks ran 700R4’s for years. 700 R4 has No cripple mode and no electrics to fiddle with. And I don’t really crawl off-road other than the beach, so no huge risk of breaking it.

They were worried about engine temps with prolonged drives.

Will our radiators be sufficient or should I look for a better rad OR auxiliary OR electric auxiliary fans?

1987 M1025. 6.2l. 2.58 diffs.

Thanks,

T

 

[Coug]

Better radiator never hurts, but these tend to do okay once you take them to a radiator shop and get them thoroughly cleaned out, and flush out the rest of the system as well. Soldiers aren't known for being picky about what water they put into the cooling system when they're late getting back to base for the weekend.

Other than getting it cleaned, it depends on how it does. If the fan comes on and stays on constantly driving down the road at normal speeds, then something needs fixed. There was a PS article about installing electric fans to act as a boost in front of the radiator, but that was to help out up armored trucks weighing 10K lbs or more driving through the desert at full speed in high heat. A non-armored truck shouldn't have any issues in the civilian world unless you're really trying to make some.

 

[TOBASH]

I ordered a 765R4 so it should be bullet proof. I went with Bowtie Overdrives, who also use the HTTP of "700R4 dot com." I have no affiliation.

They told me something interesting. They told me that they can design a manual 4L 80 transmission with no electronic control. The problem is it would require manual shifting. In other words there’s no clutch pedal but otherwise this is a manual tranny where you need to shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th gear. While that was not what I was looking for, if other people do not want electronics, this sounds like an amazing set up.

 

[TOBASH]

Now that I'm driving her more often I'm noticing all sorts of sounds.

When she warms up, there is a hissing sound coming out of the engine bay while I'm driving. Not overly loud, but definitely there. Come and goes at street speed. NO RAD OVERFLOW seen (I checked).

Occasional valve tap at idle.

Large whoosh sound that I can only assume is fan clutch engagement. Cadillac valve must be working.

So why is there hissing after driving a few miles Hway speed?

And is occasional valve tap normal on 6.2?

Fluids all check out.

 

[Wire Fox]

Can't comment on the valve tap. Not enough "everything is normal" driving under my belt with my HMMWV. I can say on the hissing, I had a small leak on my coolant that was making that sound. Once the engine was fully hot and under pressure from driving at speed, it'd start to spray out of one of the hose connections as a small, high-pressure jet. Would cause me to lose a gallon of coolant about every 40 miles, so I had to drive around with gallons of distilled water in the back until I was able to clean the system, replace all the hoses, and refill it again. It did it again after I initially installed it, but I just had to re-tighten a few clamps once the hoses were hot and flexible to get a good seal.