Ongoing Log Of My 1987 HMMWV

[REF]

If the hiss goes away when the fan kicks in, Which is normal then it's the Cadillac valve (excuse the spelling) mounted right next to the windshield washer tank. You can make that go away by loosening the hose clamp around the body of the valve and slip a piece of rubber under it and tighten the clamp. I used a piece of old radiator hose split long ways to create a U shape around the valve.
Randy

 

[Milcommoguy]

Here we have wrapped a hiss deadening rubber sheet around the valve.

One less sound to deal with, CAMO

 

[TOBASH]

That is exactly the area.

I'll use silicon sheet for longevity!

Thanks guys.

Wire Fox, thanks, but I think REF and Milcon hit it out of the park.

Thanks one and all!!!!!!

Now I just was going through my parts inventory and low and behold, I found an LED light set I ordered in 2017. I was super surprised to see headlights with new mounting bases in there! Now she will have light bezels with no rust or crud!!!

I was gonna use Heep style LEDs and even fab up something to make the ring lights work as a signal, but now there is no reason to do so. Woo Hoo. I have th Heep style LEDs and spare buckets so I might set them up later for quick swap if I get damaged by rocks on the road or trail. Gonna have to get an LED light for the blinker controller to ensure proper function.

Also getting ready to tear into my gauge cluster tomorrow to see why only speedo works. I'm betting ground wires, BUT I also found that I bought a spare functioning cluster in 2017, so I have it just in case.

Tomorrow she gets aligned and in about 2 weeks she gets her new 765R4 built for stiffer shifts and up to 800HP, but with only a 1600 stall torque converter. (I wanted bullet proof-ish without going 4l80E or Allison tranny and I wanted it without electrics. I will never place an engine over 400HP unless it comes to me free.)

In 2 weeks she will also probably get the Airlift bumper with ratcheting spare that is sitting in my building, (because I need the darned office space), and the towing extension to the bumper piece to allow for better pulling of the M1101 trailer and for attachment of an upright pole for rear camera placement (to make backing up safer and easier.) Gonna place a second camera on the rear of the trailer so when she gets pulled I can see what's going on in back.

I am beginning to think that when Winter hits, and it is too cold to work on the vehicle, I will finally build my prototype PCB with hand switches and such.

 

[Milcommoguy]

The speedo doesn't use electricity. But it does use a speedo cable. Does that make sense? Wire the heep halo effect lights for daytime driving light. That should signal batman your on the way.

This electricity thing is shocking. Disconnect the batteries before... you know the drill and don't drop the bumper on your toe, CAMO

 

[TOBASH]

The speedo doesn't use electricity. But it does use a speedo cable. Does that make sense? Wire the heep halo effect lights for daytime driving light. That should signal batman your on the way.

This electricity thing is shocking. Disconnect the batteries before... you know the drill and don't drop the bumper on your toe, CAMO

I'm sorry if my message made it look like I don't know how a cable driven speedo works.

There is a square or hexagonal cable within the sheath that gets turned by the gear in the tranny and keys into a gear in the rear of the speedo.

My point was that all the electrics ain't working while the mechanical device works properly.

And yeah, absolutely!... batteries gonna get disconnected, terminals cleaned and re-attached to restore power only after I'm done with gauges. .

Best,

T

 

[russojap]

Comrades, just because it has Cadillac parts doesn't mean that it's going ride as quiet as a Cadillac.

 

[Wire Fox]

If the hiss goes away when the fan kicks in, Which is normal then it's the Cadillac valve (excuse the spelling) mounted right next to the windshield washer tank. You can make that go away by loosening the hose clamp around the body of the valve and slip a piece of rubber under it and tighten the clamp. I used a piece of old radiator hose split long ways to create a U shape around the valve.
Randy

I think I'll also be copying this cute little mod... Sounds like an easy, nice improvement to make!

Here we have wrapped a hiss deadening rubber sheet around the valve. View attachment 776553

One less sound to deal with, CAMO

 

[TOBASH]

So getting ready to install back-up camera and monitor. Where are the best places to steal electricity in the dash and for the rear camera in a M1025?




I began to look at the gauges and the left bulb won't light. Looks like I will need to disconnect battery and open dash and check all the grounds and wiring for the gauge cluster. Yippee. :/

Whistling is the Cadillac Valve, so I will do the suggested modification. Thanks!

New LED lights are super bright and also look better than my mismatched old front lights. I now have 2 incandescent spares plus 2 LED spares.

Alignment moved to tomorrow. All tires/wheels are positive camber. That can't be good. Leftover shims from pre-demilitarization. Explains why I feel the car handles poorly in turns and tires whine in turns.


Is there a preferred alignment for those of us who do highway driving? Something better than factory spec?

 

[TOBASH]

So. I took a look at the flasher controller. Took a picture. My question is... Is it compatible with LED flasher lights???

 

[russojap]

Alignment moved to tomorrow. All tires/wheels are positive camber. That can't be good. Leftover shims from pre-demilitarization. Explains why I feel the car handles poorly in turns and tires whine in turns.


Is there a preferred alignment for those of us who do highway driving? Something better than factory spec?

I used to do alignments at a collision center, and can only imagine what a pain that thing must be to be to align. Was it hard to find someone to do it? Where do you even take it? How much will it cost?

The left control arm looks like it may be bent.

Did you check the Carfax report?
Just kidding.

I think it may just look that way because of the paint.

 

[Milcommoguy]

IMO, I wouldn't waste my time or money on an alignment till I had new tires and balance them, along with a GOOD check of all steering components and suspension. Anything out of specification gets new. All these parts work in concert. Just to many wear items to try and compensate for. IMO

IMO as a hobby and weekend cruzer (if that's the case, not this daily driver stuff) take it in logical steps as your wallet and timeline allow. IMO, I don't see how a shop would even want to mess with setting up a complete alignment do to time involved, learning curve (unless they are Humv experts) add in a couple rusted up bolts, another couple hours of &#^%%* words = $$$$ and you get a printout that says "SPOT ON" till something else wears out. (nothing new on an old HMMWV, unless you put it there)

IMO, take in steps, A few miles in between say tires and balance, getting on to joints and any wiggle / wobbles and then here's the fun part and money saver... DIY.

It's straight forward wrench turning with a little head scratching, reading right out of the TM's. Build it full on tactical load carrying or modify the numbers for civilian street / off road stance. For me (I get it, not everybody is me) It was a little intimidating at first. After a couple of hours of adjustments, it all started to make sense. The few more hours dialed it in and new muscles working the floor jack. No fancy computer / tools and you see it happen, learn it and no real $$ cost.

If you remember I had changed everything that moves, turns, holds, swivels, springs or shocks... from the frame down. The biggest headache was a boat load of rusted bolts. (150 bucks worth of new grade 8's)

IMO, At least "shake out" all the easy loose stuff. DIY toe in front / toe out rear. Figure your load needs and work out the shims requirements. (Note: if a civy road warrior a bunch are a coming out)

Lot of work and doable on a flat driveway. Lots of IMO's...MY BAD. Nothing personal to anyone. My story, I guess is I like to encourage fellow hobbyist to dig-in. GOOD LUCK.

You can do-it, and I only used the TM word once, CAMO

 

[TOBASH]

IMO, I wouldn't waste my time or money on an alignment till I had new tires and balance them, along with a GOOD check of all steering components and suspension. Anything out of specification gets new. All these parts work in concert. Just to many wear items to try and compensate for. IMO

IMO as a hobby and weekend cruzer (if that's the case, not this daily driver stuff) take it in logical steps as your wallet and timeline allow. IMO, I don't see how a shop would even want to mess with setting up a complete alignment do to time involved, learning curve (unless they are Humv experts) add in a couple rusted up bolts, another couple hours of &#^%%* words = $$$$ and you get a printout that says "SPOT ON" till something else wears out. (nothing new on an old HMMWV, unless you put it there)

IMO, take in steps, A few miles in between say tires and balance, getting on to joints and any wiggle / wobbles and then here's the fun part and money saver... DIY.

It's straight forward wrench turning with a little head scratching, reading right out of the TM's. Build it full on tactical load carrying or modify the numbers for civilian street / off road stance. For me (I get it, not everybody is me) It was a little intimidating at first. After a couple of hours of adjustments, it all started to make sense. The few more hours dialed it in and new muscles working the floor jack. No fancy computer / tools and you see it happen, learn it and no real $$ cost.

If you remember I had changed everything that moves, turns, holds, swivels, springs or shocks... from the frame down. The biggest headache was a boat load of rusted bolts. (150 bucks worth of new grade 8's)

IMO, At least "shake out" all the easy loose stuff. DIY toe in front / toe out rear. Figure your load needs and work out the shims requirements. (Note: if a civy road warrior a bunch are a coming out)

Lot of work and doable on a flat driveway. Lots of IMO's...MY BAD. Nothing personal to anyone. My story, I guess is I like to encourage fellow hobbyist to dig-in. GOOD LUCK.

You can do-it, and I only used the TM word once, CAMO

DUDE, I love ya', (I really do), but I thought I made it clear on this thread and in the "Whatcha' darn done lately" thread about all the suspension work done. Just as a reminder, I have just placed "new" 98+% good Goodyear military surplus tires on 24 bolt rims (that have been balanced), centrimatics, new ball joints, new pitman arm, new idler arm, new tie rod ends, new shocks, and a new steering pump (not rebuilt). After all that she needs an alignment. All tires are Camber positive by at least 2 degrees. The pic I posted shows the positive camber is visible.

And yes, I have been following your work on your suspension with interest. You're doing really nice work! You have been doing much of what I just completed. You seem to be posting most of it on the "What have you done lately" Forum, and I even commented on the gas tank.

Thanks, from the bottom of my heart, but she needs an alignment. After all that suspension work, she gotta be aligned. Any vehicle with any suspension part replacement would need a new alignment. My good buddy will do the alignment. He knows these rigs.

As always, I really appreciate your post and reply. Thanks for your interest and thanks for caring.

Best,

T

P.S. - as far as cost being an issue, I would have paid for all these things just as a safety concern. That being said, my mechanic is a close friend. He did all the above work for me and then refused to let me pay, (I was very humbled). Long story, but we are good friends. You might say I have done some no cost to him mechanical work, (I'm an orthopaedic surgeon). I love him and his wife. Great people. The absolute best. Buying him a dinner for 2 at "Del Friscos Steak House" in Manhattan.

 

[TOBASH]

I used to do alignments at a collision center, and can only imagine what a pain that thing must be to be to align. Was it hard to find someone to do it? Where do you even take it? How much will it cost?

The left control arm looks like it may be bent.

Did you check the Carfax report?
Just kidding.

I think it may just look that way because of the paint.

Thanks Russojap. Nothing bent BUT dirt and rust might be tricking your eye.

My buddy builds rally cars and is a talented Diesel and automotive mechanic. Gifted really. He will do the alignment. He did the above work.

Best,

T

 

[TOBASH]

Mistakenly double posted. Mods, please feel free to remove this post which is #54 in this thread.

 

[TOBASH]

My last 3 questions have not yet been answered so I am re-asking, as the questions are getting burried in this thread.

1) Getting ready to install back-up camera and monitor. Where are the best places to steal electricity in the dash and for the rear camera in a M1025?

2) Is there a preferred alignment for those of us who do highway driving? Something better than factory spec?

3) Is the blinker controller I posted compatible with LED?

Thanks

 

[REF]

I can help with #2, When I had mine aligned I had the tech enter a 94 Hummer H1. they still used shims newer than that they went to cams.
Randy

 

[TOBASH]

Just received x doors with power windows and locks!!! Can’t wait to install.

 

[Milcommoguy]

TOBASH, Old timers kicking in here. Brake cleaner or something. So you are ready for that alignment. YEA !!

If you like, highlight what they found or had adjusted to get it the way you want. Like minds want to know.

1, Is a 24 volt unit? Switched 24 volts off of either circuit breaker, behind gauge panel to the left. Use the none protected side and fuse your equipment accordingly. Will turn on/off with RUN switch. If you want it to turn on in reverse? that's another question.

2, Again that up to your normal loading requirements. If noticing wack tire wear, after a couple hundred miles, time to re-tweek. Here's what I did, right or wrong to verify my wrench turning. Drove around in the powder like desert dirt. Got lots of it here. Get a good dusting on tread. Driving straight and slow, rolled it on to my flat driveway for thirty feet. Eye balled the transfer of dust off the tire, just like a finger print. Made shim adjustments accordingly. Tires roll true and no uneven wear to date. I will say, one thick shim to much or to little and it shows up like a sore thumb.

3, Not much help on this one. (just not crazy about LED's in my old school buckets, don't get me wrong, there great) Once used the military flat one with the round boss on the front for an LED flasher and work fine.
Not so sure what's going on inside, but some may require more of a load if it has some sort of thermal / heating / bi-metal contact set-up. That's why they sell those add on resister load kits to get the electrons going. LOL

Try it and see. If it doesn't work, hitch up the trailer and then check (it needs incandescent bulbs, unless you LEDed those too) to see if you need to do the add a load thing or another type of flasher. GOOD LUCK.

AND if it does not have a serial number and manufactures name on it... it is knock-off. Same for any gauges too. Been there, done that years ago and these reproductions are everywhere. YMMV

Your three questions are up....POOF, CAMO

 

[TOBASH]

Thanks Milcom.

Alignment done. Passenger rear tire was three degrees camber positive. Could only correct to 1.8 degrees positive. I’ve seen others complain about this. Is there a fix? Reposition upper ball joint towards center? Replace lower control arm bushings? Look for frame damage?

All wheels were positive camber and toed out pre-alignment. Now they are all proper toe. Front are perfect and not sure if an extra 1 degree of camber in the rear passenger side wheel is something I should chase.

Pulling wrenches on bolts that were untouched for 30 years is no fun. Well worth it though!!!! My buddy did amazing work once again.

Vehicle drives now like a champ at 65 without feeling twitchy. No more tire whining. Holds the road well. .

I used 1996 Hummer H1 alignment specs. Seems to be ok at speed and steering is more crisp.

Engine seems solid at 65 MPH. Has more to offer but without a tachometer IÂ’m not gonna go faster. I have a tachometer in a box so I need to figure out how and where to connect it. Not sure if I need a sensor or not. 1987 A1 HMMWV with 60 amp alternator currently and 6.2 engine

Now time to try to hang my new X door clones with power windows and power locks. My current X door windows sound like an explosion every time I hit a decent size bump.

Then itÂ’s time to chase down the other rattles and bangs and loud sounds in the vehicle, starting with the rear hatch. Gonna re-align and then use silicon shims.

Great day for a drive this morning. Cool and crisp and enjoyable. Engine definitely sang a happy song with cooler denser air. Cadillac valve did not kick in once.

Best,

T

 

[juanprado]

My last 3 questions have not yet been answered so I am re-asking, as the questions are getting burried in this thread.


3) Is the blinker controller I posted compatible with LED?

View attachment 776689


Thanks

Yes, That flasher should work with LED's. I believe there is a truck lite version and a narton?