Wreckclues
Well-known member
- 196
- 551
- 93
- Location
- Jefferson, Massachusetts
Can't find the spec in the TM's but on my meter the old one is 028 ohms and the new one is 029 ohms
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your 5 ton this week?
- Thread starter dezert ratt
- Start date
Valor
Active member
- 190
- 203
- 43
- Location
- Apple Valley, Ca.
Try checking the windings to ground, the solenoid housing. Maybe a short in winding?
Wreckclues
Well-known member
- 196
- 551
- 93
- Location
- Jefferson, Massachusetts
Using the common body ground, the new one has no reading at any setting. At the 2M setting on my multimeter my ohm reading on the old solenoid is all over the place on either pin or the body.
Valor
Active member
- 190
- 203
- 43
- Location
- Apple Valley, Ca.
Check the windings with ah ohm meter with one probe grounded to the solenoid body, separate from the truck ground. You want to see if there might be a short in the windings. There should be infinite ohms, no continuity. If there is some, that means there is a short and pulling down the voltage to operate the solenoid.
Wreckclues
Well-known member
- 196
- 551
- 93
- Location
- Jefferson, Massachusetts
I gutted the old fuel shutoff solenoid on my M813 to turn it into a full manual valve and now the engine won't start.
Figure I've lost prime in the lift pump as this is the first time I've had the shutoff valve side of the fuel circuit disconnected. When I had the supply side off for troubleshooting filters, lines and the pickup tube all I had to do was use a transfer pump to pull fuel through the filter then screw the supply line back into the lift pump and she'd start within 10 seconds.
The threads I've seen for priming an NHC250 pump show an actual manual pump which my rig doesn't have.
Is there anyway to manually prime the Lift Pump on my M813 to save my starter?
Figure I've lost prime in the lift pump as this is the first time I've had the shutoff valve side of the fuel circuit disconnected. When I had the supply side off for troubleshooting filters, lines and the pickup tube all I had to do was use a transfer pump to pull fuel through the filter then screw the supply line back into the lift pump and she'd start within 10 seconds.
The threads I've seen for priming an NHC250 pump show an actual manual pump which my rig doesn't have.
Is there anyway to manually prime the Lift Pump on my M813 to save my starter?
msgjd
Well-known member
- 1,046
- 3,202
- 113
- Location
- upstate ny
unfortunately that's the nature of the M809-series , losing prime is easy once their system is opened up.. Changing a fuel filter beside the road without having a can of fuel to fill the filter can is impossible unless you have a hose and like the taste diesel fuel , and even then, priming is still a bear.. I have always wanted at the very least to put a check valve on the M809's, or better-yet an electric bypass-type pump just for priming .. Another trick is to have a fuel tank filler cap with an air fitting (and pressure regulator) to force the fuel up out of the tank , and i clamp the rubber part of the return hose with vice grips.. The setup also gives you an excuse to make a carry-along air hose with gladhand for such occasion and for tires .. The ultimate "fix" I have seen on an M809-series is the commercial spin-on fuel filter head having an integral manual priming pump.. Old Caterpillar engines had a similar goodie as well, but in time tended to leak around the primer shaft and suck air
- 2,665
- 8,607
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, La
My "whoop whoop" lights (convoy lights) quit working. I checked the breaker on my overhead console it's run through and sure enough it was popped, telling me either I was grounding out somewhere or amping out due to a frozen motor.
I disconnected the lights from the relay and tested and it didn't pop, so my trouble was "downstream" of the power/switch/relay side.
I disconnected them both at the "Y" connector and it didn't pop, plugged them in one at a time and the issue was the right light.
I disassembled the light and checked the motor, it spun freely.
After removing some electrical tape put there by a previous owner, I found the insulation for the power/ground wires was rotten and allowing them to touch, shorting out the circuit.
A little repair later, all is good!
I disconnected the lights from the relay and tested and it didn't pop, so my trouble was "downstream" of the power/switch/relay side.
I disconnected them both at the "Y" connector and it didn't pop, plugged them in one at a time and the issue was the right light.
I disassembled the light and checked the motor, it spun freely.
After removing some electrical tape put there by a previous owner, I found the insulation for the power/ground wires was rotten and allowing them to touch, shorting out the circuit.
A little repair later, all is good!
Wreckclues
Well-known member
- 196
- 551
- 93
- Location
- Jefferson, Massachusetts
Can the cold start pump on the dash be used to prime the lift pump? One of the 5-ton gang on Facebook thinks it can...time to check the TM's
Damn, forgot the cold start pump draws from the lift pump.
Damn, forgot the cold start pump draws from the lift pump.
Last edited:
Wreckclues
Well-known member
- 196
- 551
- 93
- Location
- Jefferson, Massachusetts
Rigged a Schrader valve into the fuel tank vent pipe, my pipe has been patched so much it was no big deal. Used a battery powered compressor to push fuel up to the lift pump. No danger of over pressurizing the tank, air leaks out almost as fast as I can pump it in.
The engine sputters but won't run more than a couple seconds. Next step is to re-re-rebuilt the shutoff valve, could still have a restriction.
The engine sputters but won't run more than a couple seconds. Next step is to re-re-rebuilt the shutoff valve, could still have a restriction.
Wreckclues
Well-known member
- 196
- 551
- 93
- Location
- Jefferson, Massachusetts
Machined a new backplate for the old shutoff valve to replace the solenoid completely. Also replaced a couple O-rings.
Using the compressed air in the fuel tank method I got her to start and run. Put my tank vent pipes back together and she started right up without the compressed air.
Now the problem is I can't get her to run over 1000 RPM.
At Idle oil pressure is about 50 and at 1000 RPM it's about 80.
Also when the engine's cold the oil level is between Lo and Hi but when it's at temperature the level's a little over Hi...is this normal?
I used Shell Rotella 15W40 T4, about 7 gallons.
Using the compressed air in the fuel tank method I got her to start and run. Put my tank vent pipes back together and she started right up without the compressed air.
Now the problem is I can't get her to run over 1000 RPM.
At Idle oil pressure is about 50 and at 1000 RPM it's about 80.
Also when the engine's cold the oil level is between Lo and Hi but when it's at temperature the level's a little over Hi...is this normal?
I used Shell Rotella 15W40 T4, about 7 gallons.
msgjd
Well-known member
- 1,046
- 3,202
- 113
- Location
- upstate ny
the only problem i can visualize with re-plumbing the dash "pre-heat" primer pump is the small size of the line versus the size the cummins PT-pump needs to be fed with.. I would think some blisters would appear before the OEM dash primer pump fills the filter can etc.
The dash primer pumps tend to be a bit leaky as well, potential air-sucks