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Can't find the spec in the TM's but on my meter the old one is 028 ohms and the new one is 029 ohmsWhat's the resistance in the solenoid windings? Is there a spec of what it should be?
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Can't find the spec in the TM's but on my meter the old one is 028 ohms and the new one is 029 ohmsWhat's the resistance in the solenoid windings? Is there a spec of what it should be?
Try checking the windings to ground, the solenoid housing. Maybe a short in winding?Can't find the spec in the TM's but on my meter the old one is 028 ohms and the new one is 029 ohms
Using the common body ground, the new one has no reading at any setting. At the 2M setting on my multimeter my ohm reading on the old solenoid is all over the place on either pin or the body.Try checking the windings to ground, the solenoid housing. Maybe a short in winding?
Check the windings with ah ohm meter with one probe grounded to the solenoid body, separate from the truck ground. You want to see if there might be a short in the windings. There should be infinite ohms, no continuity. If there is some, that means there is a short and pulling down the voltage to operate the solenoid.Using the common body ground, the new one has no reading at any setting. At the 2M setting on my multimeter my ohm reading on the old solenoid is all over the place on either pin or the body.
unfortunately that's the nature of the M809-series , losing prime is easy once their system is opened up.. Changing a fuel filter beside the road without having a can of fuel to fill the filter can is impossible unless you have a hose and like the taste diesel fuel , and even then, priming is still a bear.. I have always wanted at the very least to put a check valve on the M809's, or better-yet an electric bypass-type pump just for priming .. Another trick is to have a fuel tank filler cap with an air fitting (and pressure regulator) to force the fuel up out of the tank , and i clamp the rubber part of the return hose with vice grips.. The setup also gives you an excuse to make a carry-along air hose with gladhand for such occasion and for tires .. The ultimate "fix" I have seen on an M809-series is the commercial spin-on fuel filter head having an integral manual priming pump.. Old Caterpillar engines had a similar goodie as well, but in time tended to leak around the primer shaft and suck airThe threads I've seen for priming an NHC250 pump show an actual manual pump which my rig doesn't have.
Is there anyway to manually prime the Lift Pump on my M813 to save my starter?
the only problem i can visualize with re-plumbing the dash "pre-heat" primer pump is the small size of the line versus the size the cummins PT-pump needs to be fed with.. I would think some blisters would appear before the OEM dash primer pump fills the filter can etc.Can the cold start pump on the dash be used to prime the lift pump? One of the 5-ton gang on Facebook thinks it can...time to check the TM's
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